July 18, 2008

July 18, 2008

Our campsite is less than a mile from the Fortress of Louisbourg National Historic Site. That is our first stop. At the Visitor Center we purchase our tickets, peruse the exhibits and then catch the first shuttle out to the fortress two miles away on a peninsula.

Louisbourg is a reconstruction of the original citadel and town that stood here until 1758. It was rebuilt in the 1960’s as part of a government employment project after Cape Breton’s coal mines shut down. In 1710 after the British defeated the French in Newfoundland and the mainland of Nova Scotia, French fisherman set up operations on Cape Breton Island. Cod fishing on the Grand Banks was a vital industry for France, even more than the inland fur trade. It supplied vital food for use during meatless Lenten days of fast. To protect that commerce, France built a fortress here to protect this vital port. Despite the size of the fortifications it was sieged successfully twice. Once in 1745 by New England, and the last in 1758 by the British. Both times the port was blockaded and then attacked from the lightly guarded rear. Cut off from resupply and starving, the fort surrendered.

The fog is thick over the port today and we can barely make out the fortress as we walk toward it from the bus stop. Because you can’t see the modern town across the bay, it seems like we are traveling back to pre-Revolutionary times. The dozens of French-speaking staff in period costume add to the illusion. Aimee and I give ourselves a walking tour of the complex starting with the Kings Bastion and then thru the town buildings. The whole complex was reconstructed beautifully. What I find amusing is that the reconstruction project got underway after a group of New Englanders built a memorial to their victory on the site. That irritated a few Canadians.

After spending most of the day at Louisbourg we start our long return journey west back to Tucson. We make it as far as Antigonish, NS where we spend the night at a private park. I spend an enjoyable ten minutes taking photos of their colorful flower beds. I especially like the Black-Eyed Susans and Daylilies.