September 19, 2008

September 19, 2008

From the campground of Canyon de Chelly National Monument, we started at the Visitor Center and watched a very boring movie that talked about nothing. We then looked at the exhibits that told of the five Indian groups that lived in the canyon thru history. Disappointingly there is almost no information about the last residents, the Navajos, that continue to live here. I was looking forward to learning about their history here after seeing a snippet of a PBS show last winter about the Navajo War. Canyon de Chelly starred during the war as the Navajo’s last stronghold. What I did learn was the Navajos (and Apaches) migrated to this region in the 1700’s from western Canada pushing the local Pueblo and Hopi Indians out of the way.

Canyon de Chelly is a delta-shaped set of canyons in this otherwise flat terrain. In the morning we drive the length of the north rim stopping at three overlooks. Canyon de Chelly is a meandering canyon of sheer red cliffs enclosing a green verdant valley. Very pretty! There are several Navajo vendors at every overlook selling jewelry. At most of the overlooks you can spot an ancient Anasazi cliff dwelling on the opposite wall. The sandstone walls have vertical black staining high in Manganese called Desert Varnish. Some of the patterns have an almost modern art look to them.

In the afternoon we drive the south rim. Along the way we take a break from the driving tour for a two-hour hike down into the canyon to see the Anasazi ruin, “the White House”. This is the only hike that can be done solo. All other hikes into the canyon require hiring a Navajo guide. I am very cynical about these kinds of requirements, but in this case, I don’t complain too much. On the plus side the campground is free, courtesy of the Navajos.

After the hike we continue on stopping at each overlook, finishing with the best and why I came here, Spider Rock. This last vista is worth the trip. It is stunning. Having lazily spent the day investigating Canyon de Chelly, we return to the park’s campground for another free stay.