September 9, 2009

September 9, 2009

I guess the economy is taking its toll on the local residents. We had a group of freeloaders visit our campsite last night looking for a handout. They honked at me about the ills of capitalism. Taking pity on the hungry, I gave them some food and sent them on their way.

When we left Independence, MO, I didn’t realize that we were following the Santa Fe Trail. I learned that fact when we pulled into Fort Larned National Historic Site. The trail was primarily a commercial route. It served as the primary supply chain for the Southwest. When the south plains Indians (Kiowa, Cheyenne, and Commanches) started attacking wagon trains, the US Army responded by building a line of forts and escorting the caravans along the most dangerous sections. Fort Larned, built in 1860, was one of the trail guardians and a center for the Indian Wars. Its mission lasted until rail lines replaced the trail in the 1870’s.


Despite spending most of its life as a private ranch, the fort has been restored to its original appearance. The fort looks nothing like what Hollywood depicts; western forts were not wooden but stone. What wood was used in the structures had to be barged in from Michigan. We spend an hour looking at the exhibits and walking around the fort buildings.


From Fort Larned we drive to Dodge City to learn about the next phase of western history, the cowboy and the lawman. After the Civil War, Texas cowboys would drive huge cattle herds up the Cimarron Trail to railheads in Kansas. Initially to Abilene and later to Dodge City as the rail line crept westward. When the cowboys reached Dodge City and got paid they were ready to relax and spend money. Dodge City sprung up overnight to accommodate them. For its initial half dozen years Dodge City deserved its wild lawless reputation. Eventually lawmen like Wyatt Earp and Bat Masterson helped tame the town.

Most of this history can be learned in Dodge City’s Boothill Museum and Front Street. Despite looking a little hokey it is quite good and is what Tombstone in Arizona ought to emulate. Aimee however is getting tired of these museums and looks at me and says, “Lets get out of Dodge!” I heed the call and we drive west to Garden City, KS.