August 25, 2012

August 25, 2012

Of all the Hawaiian Islands, Molokai is the strangest looking. Instead of roundish like the rest, it is elongated, shaped like a shark. Molokai used to be much larger, but all the Hawaiian islands are inherently unstable because they are built of lava piled upon sand. Apparently the land routinely gives way. A million years ago the northern half of Molokai did just that and fell off into the sea. The debris can still be seen in underwater photos. The catastrophe left a scar of massive sea cliffs on the northern coastline. Later a small volcanic lava flow added the distinctive “shark fin” peninsula to Molokai.

That peninsula has a famous or rather infamous history that we are going to explore today. Because it was one of the most isolated spots in the world it was used as a place of quarantine (read prison) of Hawaiian leprosy victims starting in 1866 all they way to 1969. In 1873, a Belgium priest named Father Damian came here and dedicated his life and ultimately his health to their needs. A few years ago he was canonized a saint.

This morning we rose early and drove to the top of the cliff above Kalaupapa peninsula. We are signed up for a tour of the former leper colony. There are only three ways to get there. Fly a small plane, take the mule trip, or walk down the steep sea cliff. Of course we are hiking. At the mule barn we pick up our entry pass (you can’t go to Kalaupapa uninvited). A few hundred yards into the trail we reach the cliff side for our first view of Kalaupapa far below. It is bigger than I thought and way down there. The hike is pretty cool but way tamer than I expected and hoped for. It is only three miles long but drops almost 1600 feet along 26 switchbacks.  The trail was carved out of the cliff in 1907 and widened by the National Park Service. We take our time and enjoy the experience admiring the tremendous lush green sea cliffs that line the whole northern shore of Molokai. After a leisurely 90 minutes we are at the bottom with a beautiful gray volcanic sand beach to our left.

While waiting for our school bus tour to arrive we take a quick peek at this forbidden city. There are a lot more people and cars than I expected. Shortly the mules and the bus arrive and we get aboard. There are four hikers, six mule riders and six fliers on the tour. We get a humorous start with the bus driver moving 30 feet and stopping to talk several times. He gives us a run down of the history of the colony and a description of leprosy (now called Hansen’s Disease.)

Even though this area is now Kalaupapa National Historic Park, the former patients (who are now cured) can continue to live here until they pass on. A dozen have chosen to do so. Along with them, some 40 state health workers, and 40 National Park employees caring for the buildings, also live here. Since so very few of the early buildings still exist I am not sure why the National Park needs 40 people. The current town consists of several dozen modernish buildings on the west side.

At the end of our tour we bus over to the east side of the peninsula and the site of Father Damien’s original colony. This is where the first lepers were dropped off to fend for themselves. There is only Fr. Damien’s restored church and cemetery left as a reminder. On the positive side it is a stunningly scenic location. A great place to eat our picnic lunch. After we finished the four-hour tour we began our ascent back up the trail. It is a lot harder going up, but surprisingly takes us the same time as our descent. At the top we make a brief stop at Palau State Park to check out the park’s superb overlook of Kalaupapa.

That evening we have a dinner of Mahi Mahi on our patio while watching the sun set behind our view of Oahu Island.