August 1, 2013

August 1, 2013

This is our first day in Vienna, capital of Austria. Austria once was a major empire ruled by the Hapsburg Monarchy.  Their summer home was Schonbrunn Palace.  It sits on the outskirts of Vienna.  It is a 1400-room grand country estate. There are a lot of ticket options, but since we have seen many palaces on this trip we opt for the shortest with the English audio guide.  It is the perfect length.  On the tour we learn a little about the history of the Hapsburg monarchs, especially Maria Theresa.  Like other palaces, this one is richly decorated.  I really like the Great Gallery where they held their balls and banquets.  It is stunning with its ceiling frescoes.  Unfortunately no photography is allowed and the matronly guards are pitbulls.  Alas, we settle for a photo of a postcard.

I have to say the best part of Schonbrunn is actually free.  There is no charge to walk the palace grounds. And they are great.  The first view is superb with beautiful flower gardens and a Gloriette set on a hill in the distance.  I know I have seen this setting on famous paintings.  We walked the tree-lined side grounds and stumbled upon a Roman ruin.  It looks really cool and authentic, but it is completely fake.  I guess royals all thought they should have a relic from Rome in their backyard.

We bought a 24-hour metro pass, so we decided to concentrate on sights away from the city center. Compared to Moscow, Vienna's metro system is a dream; it is new, quiet, simple and full of signage.  From Schonbrunn, we travelled to Augarten, a city park on the other side of Vienna.  It is full of trees with little open space.  In one corner is a monstrous concrete structure.  It is called a Flak Tower and is an anti-aircraft gun emplacement the Germans used to protect Vienna from US bombers during WWII.

Our next stop was the Danube River.  It is lined with cruise boats docked for the day.  Danube River cruises are very popular.

The streetcars of Vienna are also very modern and easy to use. We took one north up the foothills of the Vienna Woods to the little hamlet of Grinzing.  Vienna has grown right to its doorstep. This is a charming tourist area that has lots of cafes that specialize in the wines grown on the slopes north of town.  Since we had lunch in the Augarten, we opt for apple strudel and a white wine. Delicious.

Vienna is famous for classical music.  The streets around our hotel are even named for various composers like Strauss, Brahms and Mozart.  One can't come to Vienna and not see a concert. Unfortunately the Vienna Orchestra is on summer holiday but we found a suitable substitute.  The city erects a huge screen next to the Town Hall and shows free taped performances.  Tonight is one by another Austrian favorite, Gustav Mahler.  In the adjoining park, vendors serve food and beverages.  Shockingly, it is all served on china and in real glassware.  In America, it would have to be plastic and paper.  For dinner we tried Wiener Schnitzel, along with beer and sangria.