September 23, 2013
September 23, 2013
Our campground last night just south Asheville, NC was full of snowbirds. Not the usual kind. This variety, known as a “halfback”, spends the winter in Florida but only goes halfway back north. They stop and summer here in the Appalachian foothills. I have to say I can see why. Now that civilization has come to the mountains, it is a very scenic place to spend serious time.
Our first stop is another Illinois man who thought the same thing; Carl Sandburg. We are at his Home National Historic Site. Sandburg was born in Galesburg, IL into poverty but went on to become a famous Pulitzer-winning author and poet. He is probably best known for his biography of Lincoln (all six volumes of it).
He bought this idyllic and beautiful farm when he was 67. We got a private tour of the house, which looks just like it did when he died in 1967. Sandburg was definitely a packrat. The entire house is filled with books, and more books, 16,000 of them. It was interesting to learn a little about Sandburg, but I think this historic site is a little of a stretch. He was an icon of popular culture in his day, but I would bet there are few today who have ever heard of him. This site is more than a museum to his life. It is also looks like a financial drain. The Park System employs many staff members mostly devoted to raising goats, the hobby that Sandburg’s wife enjoyed.
From North Carolina, we popped across the border to Greeneville, Tennessee, a town named after the Revolutionary War hero Nathaniel Greene we met yesterday. We are here to visit Andrew Johnson National Historic Site. Andrew Johnson was our 17th president, who was elevated to the office after Lincoln was assassinated. Mostly he is famous as the only president to be impeached (until Clinton). We learn a lot more about him in the small museum. Johnson, who started out a tailor, went on to hold just about every elected local, state and federal office possible. Although a Democrat, Lincoln added him as a running mate, hoping to broaden his support and win re-election. Despite being a southern Democrat, Johnson was anti-secession and grew to oppose slavery. He followed Lincoln’s Reconstruction plan, but Congress became controlled by more radical elements. Frequent vetoes prompted them to initiate impeachment. The ensuing trial failed to convict by only one vote.
Afterwards we toured the house he lived in as an adult and then rode up to his burial monument atop a steep local hill with a great view of the surrounding countryside.
We are tired so we stop for the night just east of town at Davy Crockett Birthplace State Park. Before dinner we walk to see his family’s log cabin sitting next to a beautiful river. The museum is closed but we learn about his life from a bunch of storyboards. He was a congressman for three terms who garnered fame for his outlandish frontier character. After failing to get reelected he left Tennessee for Texas where his reputation was immortalized at the battle of the Alamo in 1836.
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