August 31, 2015

August 31, 2015

I had a chance to meet the famous King Ludwig II today, and although he seemed stiff and a little quiet, he was a pleasant fellow. He told me we should visit his third palace. He said it is a little hard to get to, but well worth the trip. So we checked out of our hotel and drove east.  

We rented a Citroen, with manual transmission, the standard in Europe. The first time I put the car in neutral and let the clutch out the car died. Aimee asked, 'Don’t you remember how to drive a stick?'  I was thinking the same thing.  It turns out the car automatically kills the engine when stopped to save fuel.

After almost ninety minutes driving down narrow country roads, we finally reach the Autobahn headed to Salzburg. We aren't on it very long before we exit and head toward Chiemsee.  Known as “the Bavarian Sea”, this large lake has several islands, one of which contains the third of Mad King Ludwig’s castles.  With the Bavarian Castle Pass we bought, our visit of Herrenchiemsee should cost us nothing.  Except we had to pay for parking, our bathroom visits. and then the boat ride to the island.  But the tour was free!

Like all of Ludwig’s castle tours, I couldn’t take photos but I did buy the postcards so I can take photos of photos.  Aimee and I are glad we made the stop as it is very cool.  This castle was designed to mimic and honor the famous French Sun King, Louis XIV and his Versailles Palace. Herrenchiemsee is like a mini Versailles, cut out of the forests of this island.  It has great fountains outside and lavish decorations inside including an awesome Hall of Mirrors, which I think looks better than the original. But for us, this palace reinforces that Ludwig was mad or at least supremely self-absorbed.  He longed to be a true autocrat as the French king was.  He wanted nothing to do with his subjects.  Even his dining table was on an elevator platform that could be lowered down and filled so he didn’t have to interact with servants.

Like Neuschwanstein, Herrenchiemsee is only partially finished. Ludwig died before he could finish them and nobody else had the money or desire to complete them. Herrenchiemsee had a bonus because we had a chance to see a similar hallway, in the finished state directly compared to the unfinished.

We feel compelled do a whirlwind tour of Herrenchiemsee.  Mother Nature is plotting against us. The weather is forecasted to turn rainy and overcast and we have some sights ahead of us that really need clear weather.  From the palace it is a 20 minute walk to the dock, 15 minutes on the ferry, and then an hour by car to the far eastern end of Bavaria, in the Berchtesgaden Land.  Berchtesgaden is Bavaria’s Alpine playground.  It was also home to a more recent German megalomaniac, Adolph Hitler.  This is where he wrote 'Mein Kampf'.  His most famous house was nicknamed the Eagles Nest because it sits atop a nearby mountain.  Being so high a tour would be worthless on overcast days.

After leaving the Autobahn and winding through Berchtesgaden, we climb uphill to Obersalzburg. After parking we have to take a bus up to the Eagles Nest and for good reason. The next road up is a one lane scary cliff-hugging path.  Aimee closes her eyes the whole way. Once we reach the top we aren't there yet. Down a long refreshingly cool tunnel, we find a vintage elevator that then sweeps us the final leg to the mountain top hideaway.  From this vantage point the views are phenomenal of the valley far below. Unfortunately the house has been converted into a restaurant.  I recognize the dining room from movies, but otherwise the whole experience is kind of a letdown.  Surprising since this is another top Bavarian tourist attraction. I learned Hitler didn't like it either. Rumor has it he was scared of heights and only visited it a few times.

From Obersalzburg, we descend to the valley floor on the opposite side crossing into Austria, and finding our farmhouse inn on the outskirts of Salzburg.  After a full day of hectic country driving, I am ready for a beer.  Luckily we found a great outdoor restaurant just a few doors away.