June 29, 2017
June 29, 2017
The main reason we chose to come to France and start in Provence at this time of the year is Lavender. I have seen photos of lush fields of purple as far as the eye can see. I want a picture like that on our wall.
I got recommended directions off the Internet. We start by driving an hour north, passing beautiful Sunflower fields, to the town of Gordes. It is a picture perfect hill town that looks like it should be in Tuscany. Aimee read that it is now an enclave for the uber-wealthy French. We take a detour from the plan and visit nearby Senanque Abbey. I have seen photos of this Medieval Cistercian structure fronted by Lavender. Little did I realize it was down a one way road at the bottom of a steep valley and mobbed by tourist buses. Sadly the Lavender was mediocre. Going after flower blooms can be a risky proposition. Sometimes Mother Nature doesn’t cooperate. Aimee and I are hoping that we aren’t too early.
We should backtrack to Gordes to follow our itinerary but decide to just input the next destination into the GPS. That was probably a mistake. I am wishing I had bought a real map to check the GPS. It turns out the Luberon Region, which we are touring, is a mountain range extension of the Alps that separate France, Switzerland, and Italy. We end up driving for an hour along narrow hilly winding roads dodging mountain bikers without even a hint of land flat enough for Lavender. The area is however beautiful.
We should backtrack to Gordes to follow our itinerary but decide to just input the next destination into the GPS. That was probably a mistake. I am wishing I had bought a real map to check the GPS. It turns out the Luberon Region, which we are touring, is a mountain range extension of the Alps that separate France, Switzerland, and Italy. We end up driving for an hour along narrow hilly winding roads dodging mountain bikers without even a hint of land flat enough for Lavender. The area is however beautiful.
We persevere and eventually come to the town of Sault which overlooks a valley with Lavender fields. We descend down and find several fields worthy of photos. In particular I am looking for extensive fields of lavender that have contours. Since the Lavender fields rotate every year, I am realizing I might have to drive around for weeks to find the perfect spot. There are other obstacles. At our first stop I am overrun with bees. Apparently hives are stored near the fields to produce special Lavender Honey. I have to overcome my urge to swat at them. The lavender fields are also full of sticky mud and manure fertilizer. Worst of all, I found that to get a good photo, I need to spend time pulling weeds that shoot regularly from the rows.
Lavender Photography is getting too much like work; so in the early afternoon, I surrender and turn back towards Arles. My GPS says we have an hour forty minutes, which we now know really means two hours.
Close to Arles, I get a second wind and stop at the Roman ruins of Glanum. We stop and tour this very ancient village built around a sacred spring. It is expensive and underwhelming. The best part is outside the gate, where stands the oldest Triumphal Arch in France and probably the best preserved Roman Mausoleum.
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