October 27, 2018

October 27, 2018

We woke to a rainy day in the Moroccan capital city of Rabat. I guess it is justice we get rain on the edge of the Sahara Desert as we were blessed with rain-free holidays in usually damp Scotland and South America this year.

On our guided tour of this Unesco World Heritage city, we start at Dar-al-Makhzen, the Royal Palace of the king of Morocco. We are not allowed to get too close to this large residence. The Moroccan king’s dynasty can supposedly trace their lineage back to the Prophet Mohammed’s daughter Fatima.

Our next stop is Chellah, an old medieval fortified necropolis. Inside are some Roman and Phoenician ruins. There is also the ruins of a medieval 14th century mosque; its crumbling minaret is home to several giant stork nests.

Our next stop is at the Mausoleum of King Mohammed V. It contains the remains of the current king’s father and grandfather. It is a gleaming white edifice. Each of the four entrances is protected by a ceremonial guard in elaborate uniform. The street entrance is guarded by two horsemen.

Inside the same complex is Hassan Tower. This is an unfinished mosque begun in 1195. It was intended to be the largest in the world. Unfortunately the Caliph died shortly after construction began and the minaret remains half built. Its location on a hill makes it an icon of Rabat.

Dodging raindrops, we then head to the oldest section in Rabat known as the Kasbah of the Udayas. Kasbah is the Arabic term for castle or keep. It is located right where the local river enters the ocean. It was built in the 12th century by the Almohad Caliphate. Of particular interest are the narrow winding alleys white washed in blue. We take a break in a Moorish Cafe facing the sea. We order Coffee and Mint Tea with some almond and honey snacks.

It starts to rain again on the walk back to the bus. Seeking an indoor venue we have the bus drop us at the uninteresting Rabat Modern Art Museum. We breeze through it and head down the street to the Archaeological Museum. Morocco has a long history of invaders. The coast was colonized first by the Phoenicians who were then swept up by the Romans and subsequently the Vandals and Visigoths. In the 8th century came the Muslims of Arabia. The museum while small has some exquisite pieces from the Roman period.

The sun is beginning to shine, so we decide to walk back to the hotel taking the long way. Inside the 14th century Medina walls we discover a souk or Arabic market that seems to go on indefinitely. A Medina is the old section of an Arabic town. This souk is for locals so it is mostly filled with shoes, clothing, and household goods. There are quite a few vendors selling from open piles of spices. This is apropos as the Portuguese explored this coast on their way around Africa in search of a water route to India and the Spice Islands (Indonesia).

After a short break at the hotel, we took the tram across the river to the sister city of Salé and had dinner on the marina. Salé was infamous in the 17^th and 18^th century as one of the ports of the Barbary Pirates who raided European ships and terrorized coastal cities in search of loot, ransom, and slaves. Even Ireland was at risk. Kidnapped men were chained to oars while women were sent to harems as concubines. After finishing our first course, the sky opened up and poured on the first row of tables. I am thankful we were too late to get those premium dockside seats!