May 7, 2022
May 7, 2022
We got up very early this morning because our bodies have not acclimated to Istanbul time zone yet. After breakfast we took a walk uphill to check out the Cistern again. An Internet search said it should be open. As soon as we saw it again, I recognized my mistake. While the modern above-ground structure is similar, the name is wrong. Apparently Istanbul has dozens of cisterns, few of which are open. We wander the neighborhood and soon find the Cistern of Theodosius. We buy tickets for the next show. Built in 430AD, this cistern is a hundred years older than the much larger and famous Basilica Cistern. This one used to be free, but after renovation, it is now only open for light shows.
At 10am we are allowed to proceed down the long stone stairway into this large room dug into the ground. The clay-tile ceiling is supported by 32 marble columns. In ancient times, this cistern (underground water storage tank) was filled by the Valens Aqueduct that delivered water from springs many miles away. This water tank fed the Byzantine Palace.
After a few minutes the light show starts. There is a little bit of a theme to it, but it is mostly different colored lights illuminating the columns and walls. Totally unnecessary. I would have preferred it to be a museum explaining its purpose and history. But that probably wouldn’t draw the average tourist.
After the light show we walked towards the Grand Bazaar. On the way we passed the Burned Column that once supported a great statue of Emperor Constantine. Across a plaza is another domed mosque. Its interior is ordinary. Istanbul has domed mosques everywhere.
We then entered the Grand Bazaar. It is a large shopping mall on steroids. It is also probably the oldest covered market in the world. We spent an hour exploring (getting lost in) this maze of shops and hallways.
On our walk back to the hotel we stopped at Seven Hills Terrace Restaurant. We were going to have a drink but there was a long wait for a seat. Instead we soaked up the outstanding view of the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sofia.
Back at the hotel, we rested for an hour. At 1pm we met our tour group. It is a Rick Steves excursion. We have watched all his shows and routinely use his books for our personal European adventures. Rick and I are of similar age and we both backpacked Europe in our youth. Who knew I could have made a living out of travel.
Our group of twenty-five travelers did a walking tour of the local area stopping at the Hippodrome and the Grand Bazaar. So far it is a repeat of yesterday. Very late in the day we visited the Hagia Sofia, my main motivation for coming to Turkey. This architectural masterpiece was built by Emperor Justinian in 537AD. For a long time this church was the Vatican of Christianity. When Constantinople fell to the Ottomans in 1453, it was turned into a mosque. After Turkey was secularized 100 years ago, it was converted into a Museum. Just two years ago it was changed back to a mosque for political reasons. On the plus side it is now free to enter, but that comes with a heavy cost. Access is now limited during the five daily calls to prayer. The gates reopened at 6pm and we pushed through the waiting crowd to enter.
Hagia Sofia (Holy Wisdom) is an extraordinary World Heritage site. The dome is massive, supported by four great arches and pillars. It was the largest building of the ancient world and the biggest church for a millennia. Unfortunately Islam doesn't allow human figures in their mosques, so flag-like pennants are now strategically placed to obscure the visibility of the few remaining Christian mosaics. The second floor is also closed to prevent getting closer to that artwork.
On the way out Aimee and I notice two small mosaic panels in the exit hallways still visible. They haven't been covered since they are not visible to active prayers.
We eat dinner with the tour group at a restaurant very close to our hotel. We skip the salad, but eat the minced meat Turkish pizza, and chicken eggplant entree. Aimee and I are hoping for a sound sleep tonight.
We got up very early this morning because our bodies have not acclimated to Istanbul time zone yet. After breakfast we took a walk uphill to check out the Cistern again. An Internet search said it should be open. As soon as we saw it again, I recognized my mistake. While the modern above-ground structure is similar, the name is wrong. Apparently Istanbul has dozens of cisterns, few of which are open. We wander the neighborhood and soon find the Cistern of Theodosius. We buy tickets for the next show. Built in 430AD, this cistern is a hundred years older than the much larger and famous Basilica Cistern. This one used to be free, but after renovation, it is now only open for light shows.
After a few minutes the light show starts. There is a little bit of a theme to it, but it is mostly different colored lights illuminating the columns and walls. Totally unnecessary. I would have preferred it to be a museum explaining its purpose and history. But that probably wouldn’t draw the average tourist.
After the light show we walked towards the Grand Bazaar. On the way we passed the Burned Column that once supported a great statue of Emperor Constantine. Across a plaza is another domed mosque. Its interior is ordinary. Istanbul has domed mosques everywhere.
Back at the hotel, we rested for an hour. At 1pm we met our tour group. It is a Rick Steves excursion. We have watched all his shows and routinely use his books for our personal European adventures. Rick and I are of similar age and we both backpacked Europe in our youth. Who knew I could have made a living out of travel.
Our group of twenty-five travelers did a walking tour of the local area stopping at the Hippodrome and the Grand Bazaar. So far it is a repeat of yesterday. Very late in the day we visited the Hagia Sofia, my main motivation for coming to Turkey. This architectural masterpiece was built by Emperor Justinian in 537AD. For a long time this church was the Vatican of Christianity. When Constantinople fell to the Ottomans in 1453, it was turned into a mosque. After Turkey was secularized 100 years ago, it was converted into a Museum. Just two years ago it was changed back to a mosque for political reasons. On the plus side it is now free to enter, but that comes with a heavy cost. Access is now limited during the five daily calls to prayer. The gates reopened at 6pm and we pushed through the waiting crowd to enter.
We eat dinner with the tour group at a restaurant very close to our hotel. We skip the salad, but eat the minced meat Turkish pizza, and chicken eggplant entree. Aimee and I are hoping for a sound sleep tonight.
posted by Mike and Aimee at 10:46 AM
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