October 2, 2022

October 2, 2022

We awoke in Venice, Italy this morning. After breakfast we loaded on a large taxi boat at the nearby train station. We sailed around the south side of the island past San Marco Plaza and the Doge’s Palace. Venice was settled by the local mainland fisherman fleeing invading barbarians after the fall of the Roman Empire. They were self-governed by elected councils. A figurehead Duke (Doge in Venetian) was elected as leader for life.

Farther west we passed the sea entrance to the Arsenale. Forced to make a living at sea, the Venetians became the foremost trading power of the Middle Ages. They started with fishing and salt, expanding into lucrative luxury goods from the Orient (spices, silk, coffee). In a dangerous world, the Venetians needed a navy to defend their transports and trading ports. The Arsenale (manufacturing shop) was where they built their great rowing vessels. They could produce a new ship every day. And every trading vessel could be converted into a fighting ship when required.

Adjacent to the entrance is an out-of-place, but cool-looking, white plaster sculpture of twelve giant arms spanning a canal. Named Building Bridges, it was erected in 2019 as part of the annual Venice Biennale cultural exhibition. The artist is Lorenzo Quinn, son of actor Anthony Quinn.

Our boat transfer finishes on the island of Murano, famous for production of fine glass. Venice moved their glassmaking to Murano because of the fire hazard to the wooden structures. Glassmaking was a state secret. Glassmakers who revealed the technology were hunted down and killed. We saw a short demonstration of glass blowing. The craftsman finished by making a glass horse in less than a minute.

We then went through the showroom to look at drinking glass sets and decorative art pieces. It is all very stunning, and we almost succumb to buying something. Fortunately we awoke in time to pass on the expensive opportunity.

We returned to the main island for a walking tour. Our local guide gave us a look at ordinary Venetian life. Amazingly with her direction, we went from madhouse to local in a matter of steps. We even ran into a group of kids playing soccer in a campo (city square). They were oblivious to our presence. She told us Venetians are becoming a dying breed. Venice is a hard city to have a modern lifestyle. Plus locals are getting priced out of the market by well-heeled tourists and strict renovation regulations. Most Venetians have moved to the mainland and commute in.

The tour ended in Piazza San Marco where we get our first glimpse of Basilica San Marco. I didn’t recognize it. When I saw it 38 years ago it was covered in a layer of dark grime. Today it is gleaming white marble! Unfortunately it is also partially blocked by scaffolding.

I was hoping to have a refreshment break at one of the famous cafes around St Mark’s but they are all packed and exorbitantly overpriced. Instead Aimee and I wander west of San Marco. On the way we ran into some ornately decorated churches. The first was San Moise. I am stunned at the amazing 17th century Baroque facade full of intricately carved statuary.

We next stumbled upon Santa Maria del Giglio. Known familiarly as Zobenigo, it has a similar intricate Baroque facade. Interestingly the statuary has no Christian theme, but rather shows the benefactor’s family and maps of cities where he served, including Split. Venetians got very wealthy in the business of trading and these many richly decorated church facades show it. It is a little hard to appreciate because the facade is facing another building directly across a small street.

We pass a cafe with lots of well-dressed locals. When we turn around we notice a bride and groom arriving. Another wedding party. Aimee is now happy. We finally find a cafe down a back street with outdoor seating in a tiny, secluded square. We shared a carafe of white wine and Bruschetta (which is pronounced with a hard K in Italian). We also had bread dipped into Olive Oil and Balsamic Vinegar from Modena. I like the Balsamic so much we make plans to find some when we get closer to that city.

On the way to our next photo stop, I noticed some ladies having difficulty deciding where to turn. I mentioned ‘scala’ (stairs) and they smiled. Finding things in Venice can be difficult because the city is a maze of tightly packed islands, canals and infrequent small bridges. Amusingly I successfully led Aimee and this group of Italians to the Scala of Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. The wealthy long-gone former owner decided to build himself a very elaborate exterior staircase for his home.

We then worked our way northeast back to the Grand Canal at the Rialto Bridge. This is one of the few bridges across this main water highway. The frugal merchants running Venice picked this bridge design because it incorporated rent-paying stores along the walkway.

We then stopped at Santa Maria Miracoli church for a photo stop but the lighting is poor. Our last stop was at Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo. On one side is Scuola Grande di San Marco. This is a former fraternal society that is now a public hospital. It has an ornate marble facade. The huge open upper floor has a medical exhibition, so I only take a quick photo of the exquisite ceiling.

We go next door to the very plain but huge brick Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo (Saints John & Paul). Inside is entirely different. This is where many of the Doges are buried, and they clearly had enormous wealth. Every inch of the inside is covered in the most elaborate of tombs. Each one seemed to top the next. I never took so many photos of the inside of a church before. Venice is surely the place to visit if you like sculpture.

Aimee and I then strolled back to our accommodations. After resting and cleaning up, we had our group farewell dinner and said our goodbyes to our Gate1 traveling companions.