May 19, 2023
May 19, 2023
This morning we left Noto and drove north into the hinterlands of southeastern Sicily. This region is a land of deep cut canyons making travel difficult. The small communities here are very isolated. Growing crops in such unforgiving land must have been challenging.
After winding through the canyons along narrow lanes we arrived at the Necropolis of Pantalica, a World Heritage Site. The steep canyon walls in this area are littered with thousands of rock-cut tombs and troglodyte homes from three thousand years ago. These caves were carved by the local Sicels who were probably forced from seashore communities by the arrival of the Greeks.
We hiked along the canyon walls in two directions exploring the caves. On the second hike we arrived at the ruins of a housing complex atop a plateau. This entire area reminds me of the Anasazi communities of the US West. The only difference, besides Pantalica being much older, is that the American West is more devoid of vegetation while this area is lush.
We then drove to the coast to the city of Siracusa (Syracuse). We stopped for a lunch of chicken with tomatoes and a Pistachio dessert.
After lunch we went to the nearby Neapolis Archeological Park. Ancient Syracuse was arguably the greatest of the Greek city-states equal in size to Athens. Archimedes lived here and Syracuse even defeated Athens in a naval battle. Neapolis (New City) was an expansion of Syracuse from its base on Ortigia Island to the Sicilian mainland. The most interesting site is the huge quarry. Slaves from captured enemies (including Athenians) labored in the underground quarry to cut limestone blocks for construction. Interestingly the quarry roof collapsed during an earthquake exposing the seams. We walked along the now open rock faces. We could easily see the marks the stonecutters used to remove the blocks.
Nearby is a Greek theater that is still used to perform modern plays. Our guide went through the many parts of an ancient theater. Many of the Greek terms are still in use today, including orchestra, scene, and climax. In a related fashion, the word Museum derives from a Temple to the Muses.
Nearby we see a Roman Amphitheater or arena. This was an invention of the Romans and essentially means two (amphi) theaters combined.
We then drove across a bridge to Ortigia Island and checked into our Ortea Palace Hotel. This upscale hotel used to be the city Post Office. I am not too happy as I have trouble getting both the room key and the elevator button to work. They both use a very finicky ultra-fancy sensor. Bring back the easy button.
Aimee and I took a nice stroll down this very touristy section of Siracusa. Ortigia Island is where the Corinthians from the Greek Mainland first settled in Sicily. We pass Greek ruins and Baroque churches and lots of shops and restaurants. It is a cute but crowded old town of Syracuse.
After resting we walked back into town for dinner. We had Aimeeās favorite of Ravioli with a side of Caponata followed by a dessert of Tiramisu.
This morning we left Noto and drove north into the hinterlands of southeastern Sicily. This region is a land of deep cut canyons making travel difficult. The small communities here are very isolated. Growing crops in such unforgiving land must have been challenging.
After winding through the canyons along narrow lanes we arrived at the Necropolis of Pantalica, a World Heritage Site. The steep canyon walls in this area are littered with thousands of rock-cut tombs and troglodyte homes from three thousand years ago. These caves were carved by the local Sicels who were probably forced from seashore communities by the arrival of the Greeks.
We hiked along the canyon walls in two directions exploring the caves. On the second hike we arrived at the ruins of a housing complex atop a plateau. This entire area reminds me of the Anasazi communities of the US West. The only difference, besides Pantalica being much older, is that the American West is more devoid of vegetation while this area is lush.
We then drove to the coast to the city of Siracusa (Syracuse). We stopped for a lunch of chicken with tomatoes and a Pistachio dessert.
After lunch we went to the nearby Neapolis Archeological Park. Ancient Syracuse was arguably the greatest of the Greek city-states equal in size to Athens. Archimedes lived here and Syracuse even defeated Athens in a naval battle. Neapolis (New City) was an expansion of Syracuse from its base on Ortigia Island to the Sicilian mainland. The most interesting site is the huge quarry. Slaves from captured enemies (including Athenians) labored in the underground quarry to cut limestone blocks for construction. Interestingly the quarry roof collapsed during an earthquake exposing the seams. We walked along the now open rock faces. We could easily see the marks the stonecutters used to remove the blocks.
Nearby is a Greek theater that is still used to perform modern plays. Our guide went through the many parts of an ancient theater. Many of the Greek terms are still in use today, including orchestra, scene, and climax. In a related fashion, the word Museum derives from a Temple to the Muses.
Nearby we see a Roman Amphitheater or arena. This was an invention of the Romans and essentially means two (amphi) theaters combined.
We then drove across a bridge to Ortigia Island and checked into our Ortea Palace Hotel. This upscale hotel used to be the city Post Office. I am not too happy as I have trouble getting both the room key and the elevator button to work. They both use a very finicky ultra-fancy sensor. Bring back the easy button.
Aimee and I took a nice stroll down this very touristy section of Siracusa. Ortigia Island is where the Corinthians from the Greek Mainland first settled in Sicily. We pass Greek ruins and Baroque churches and lots of shops and restaurants. It is a cute but crowded old town of Syracuse.
After resting we walked back into town for dinner. We had Aimeeās favorite of Ravioli with a side of Caponata followed by a dessert of Tiramisu.
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