September 13, 2023

September 13, 2023

With all the wide bays and deep-cut peninsulas, travel along the East Coast is difficult and filled with tunnels and bridges most of which are tolled. To get off the Delmarva peninsula from Exmore, VA we drive south down the long tip till we reach the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel. This technical marvel spans the 17.5 mile gap across the mouth of the bay to Norfolk, VA. Most of it is a low bridge similar to the Key West Highway in Florida. To allow ship traffic, in two places the road plunges into a mile-long tunnel under the bay. I wonder how they keep sea water from filling it during storm surges.

Once past the Chesapeake, we cross north over the mouth of the James River on another, albeit much shorter, Hampton Roads Bridge-Tunnel. Then across a bridge to Fort Monroe National Monument. Once on the fort’s island we cross a moat and a very skinny gate to the interior of the fort. It is huge and contains a small village inside. We later learn this is the largest fort in the US and could easily hold two or three other forts inside.

We are early so we climb atop the ramparts and then around the perimeter. The exterior is almost an idyllic seashore community filled with elegant homes, a beautiful seashore and lots of walkers and joggers. Hard to believe the first African slaves landed here in 1619. On our return walk, we ran across a pine tree with unusual pinecones. We later learn from a ranger that it is a Cedar of Lebanon.

Once the Visitor Center opens we discover this fort was only decommissioned twelve years ago and most of the homes are now leased to the public. This fort was one of many coastal defense fortifications built after the British invaded during the War of 1812. During the Civil War, this fort stayed in Union hands and was known as the Gibraltar of Chesapeake Bay. Sited at the mouth of the James River, it provided the North with a critical base for operations to blockade and attack the Confederate capital of Richmond. Since it was in the South, many slaves escaped to freedom here. The local Union commander reasoned these runaway slaves were ‘contraband’ of war. This became the official policy of the US providing the Union with extra labor and soldiers.

From the Visitor Center we returned to the fort and toured the Casement Museum. It is contained under the walls of the fort and provides a more detailed history. The history is surprisingly long. Robert E. Lee finished the construction of the complex. Soldiers here witnessed the epic Civil War naval duel 'Battle of the Ironclads' between the CSS Virginia and USS Monitor. Abe Lincoln visited during the Peninsula Campaign. Even Edgar Allan Poe served here for a short period. At the end of the Civil War, Jefferson Davis was imprisoned within these walls.

Back in the car we drove to Richmond for a quick visit to Maggie Walker National Historic Site. I was prepared to be disappointed since her claim to fame is merely being the first black woman bank president. The site is in her former home downtown. After watching the park film on her life, Aimee and I were both impressed. I put her on the same level as Booker T. Washington. To paraphrase her philosophy, she would have said: ‘quit whining about your problems and do something about it’. She was a lady of action. She led a community effort to combine the savings of residents and use the money to build black businesses. It is a value system that people of all colors need to relearn.

Afterwards we gave ourselves a quick tour of downtown Richmond. Most strikingly we drove down Monument Avenue. This wide boulevard used to be filled notoriously with traffic circles containing giant Confederate Memorials to famous Rebel Generals. In the last few years every single one has been removed leaving tall grass and a few flowers. Lining Monument Avenue are some very impressive antebellum mansions.

Outside the city we stopped at the Cold Harbor Visitor Center. It is another section of the large Richmond National Battlefield Park. Cold Harbor was the site of two devastating Union defeats. First in 1862 with Lee vs McClellan at the climax of the Peninsular Campaign. And again in 1864 with Lee vs Grant during the Overland Campaign. After horrendous casualties McClellan retreated but Grant moved forward to the next battle at Petersburg. We drove both battlefield tours.

We returned to Norfolk, VA to find our next hotel. It took much longer because of heavy rush-hour traffic trying to get through a choke-point at the Monitor-Merrimac Memorial Bridge Tunnel. There are only fourteen of these bridge-tunnels in the world and this town has three!