July 29, 2024

July 29, 2024

We left the Antrim coast and drove ten miles south to the Dark Hedges. This attraction is a grove of gnarly beach trees lining a narrow lane. It is the Northern Ireland equivalent of Oak Alley in Louisiana. It is famous because it was another film location for Game of Thrones. Too famous. Now the street is pedestrian-only, there is a pay-parking lot, and loads of tourists. We left right after breakfast, so I was able to double-park at the entrance. We are five minutes too late. A family got here ahead of us and is in the prime spot. I quickly got a reasonable photo and left, watching dozens of cars file-in right after us. This spot loses its mysterious atmosphere with a crowd of tourists walking the lane.

We found the highway and had an easy drive south. The better roads in Northern Ireland are due to this area being part of richer Britain and also because the terrain is mostly flat. The English were no dummies. They stole the best land; not the rocky hilly boglands of western Ireland. On the way we passed another overturned car. I am actually surprised we haven't seen more.

After an hour we reached the capital Belfast and found our hotel in the Titanic Quarter. Our first stop is the new Titanic Museum. On our drive in we saw a cruise ship docked. That means the next available entrance for us is not for three hours. We punt and walk into downtown Belfast. The Titanic Quarter has been transformed in recent years and there are tons of curiosities along the riverfront. After checking them out, we cross the pedestrian bridge over the River Lagan, observing the Weir that controls the tidal flows.

In Belfast city center we see the Albert Memorial Clock in the distance. This Clock Tower was built as a tribute to Queen Victoria’s husband's 1861 death. It was built on reclaimed land so it is now the Leaning Tower of Belfast.

A few blocks farther we reach City Hall. It was built after Queen Victoria granted the town City Status in recognition of the thriving linen and shipbuilding industries powering its rapid growth.

We spot a taxi line across the street so we negotiate a tour with one of the Black Taxis. Our driver takes us all over the city showing us the partisan districts outside the city center.

There are long walls that separate the partisan neighborhoods. I thought these were artifacts of the Troubles of many years ago. Sadly they are still needed. The neighborhood gates are closed every night. Schools and housing are also still segregated by religion. The Troubles have died down since the 1998 Good Friday Agreement but animosity still simmers just below the surface.

We drove through both sectarian neighborhoods; each side has their murals and memorials. The Greens or Republicans have murals and memorials extolling their martyrs killed by the Army or imprisoned unjustly. The Orange or Unionists are flying the British flag, and have memorials to the bombings and assassinations done by the IRA guerrillas. Both sides can’t let it go and forget. Children growing up here have constant reminders of past injustices. Sometimes it is best to forget and move on. Our liberals at home need to come here and learn why countries need to focus on the good, and put grievance politics in the trash bin. It corrodes societal cohesion.

I enjoyed hearing first hand from our driver about conditions here. I am shocked to learn that most Belfastians live in Public housing. I always thought the Brits left socialism behind with the Thatcher revolution. No wonder they are struggling. After ninety minutes of this, Aimee and I are both mentally exhausted and have our Black Taxi driver drop us at the Titanic Museum.

The Titanic Museum is housed in a unique building with four shiny prow-like corners. We joined the crush of museum goers. It started with exhibits covering the industrialization of Belfast. For a new museum it is sort of a disorganized maze. Very disappointing. We also find the exhibits open up later as visitors naturally spread out, just the opposite of ideal crowd flow.

The next section covers the construction of the Titanic. The Titanic was an amazing engineering feat. When we board a cruise ship, we forget how much infrastructure lies just out of sight necessary to meet the needs of a small city of passengers. I especially related to one fact from my working days. Titanic had 29 steam boilers powered by 600 tons of coal daily with an army of 317 operators. Wow!

From a window we can see a layout of the Titanic in its now filled-in dry dock in the plaza below. Once the frame was completed, the Titanic was launched and moved to the fitting-out wharf. Here the infrastructure was added and all the hotel components installed. Plumbing, furniture, flooring; it took 3000 men nearly a year. The museum has mock-ups of the accommodations for each passenger class.

There were lots of storyboards about the passengers. Many were fascinating. Each had a story to tell. Ultimately all the hard work constructing this luxury ship came to a sudden end on April 15, 1912 with 1512 lives lost. Despite having state of the art Marconi Radio communication, the sinking was an amalgam of errors and bad luck. Icebergs had moved south into the shipping lane. The ship didn't have closed bulkheads, there weren't enough lifeboats, and the crew and ship were brand new. Due to a mix-up, the lookout had no binoculars.

Less than half the passengers survived. Luckiest were first class women. Almost all lived. If you were a man, or a crew member or third class, your chances were very poor.

We rested back at our hotel room and then walked to the Titanic Hotel for dinner. It is located next door to the museum in the former headquarters of Harland & Wolff, builders of the Titanic. We sat in the large bar which is the former drafting room. After ordering, I gave myself the nickel tour. Several rooms have been preserved as they would have been a hundred years ago, especially the original entrance and the President’s office. Belfast did a great job preserving this heritage.