Today is devoted to the Duomo since most museums in Florence are closed on Mondays. A reservation is required to climb the dome of the Cathedral di Santa Maria del Fiore. I thought Aimee might enjoy the history lesson while getting some early morning exercise. It is 463 steps to the top, with the last part being a narrow staircase between the two domes.
There was a competition in 1418 to build this massive dome (between Ghiberti & Brunelleschi again). Brunelleschi won this time. His design was revolutionary and it was the largest dome built since the Roman Pantheon 1500 years earlier. Some consider this event to be the start of the Renaissance. From the observation platform on the lantern, we get great views of Florence.
We are the first to go down but we still have to navigate the narrow passage inside the dome with the next group coming up. We stop at the base of the dome to get a photo of the floor far far below. When I did the climb many years ago there wasn’t a protective glass blocking photos. Travel today is a big tradeoff.
The Duomo is not open to the public yet, so we are directed back outside. We choose to visit the next door Baptistery in the interim. We first circle this immense structure checking out the three famous sets of doors (all copies) again. After entering we sadly find the medieval gold mosaic ceiling is under restoration behind a screen. The only exposed section is in an exterior archway.
We next visit the Duomo Museum housed in a separate building. I was expecting just to see the original Baptistery doors that have been moved inside for preservation. We do find all three sets elegantly exhibited, although lots of the gilding has been worn off from the millions touching them over the last 600 years.
The museum turns out to be far larger and very interesting. The Duomo once had a partially completed Gothic facade. After the dome was completed, this decor was considered old fashioned. It was removed but the plan to reface it fell apart. This symbol of the Renaissance lay bare for three centuries until 1887. The city fathers saved all the Gothic statues and they are now exhibited in a full scale model filling an open atrium.
The museum also goes into the design of Brunelleschi’s dome. He was able to build the dome without full scaffolding by building a second dome made of brick in a herringbone pattern that was self-supporting until the mortar dried.
Besides the original statuary of the Duomo facade, the museum contains the original sculpted medallions that litter the facade of the Campanile or Bell Tower. Each depicts some craft or field of science. Aimee likes the weaving one. Humorously the mechanical arts is represented by what looks like a flying monkey from Oz but is actually Daedalus and his wings of wax.
This museum turned out to be very interesting but they need to employ a German consultant to help them with signage and routing. The numbered rooms were not in order and we struggled at the end to find a restroom before exiting.
From the museum we checked out the new front facade of the Duomo. It was interesting to see all the designs that were considered before settling on this one. The Duomo is now open for visitation, but the security line for the public is very long. We circle the Duomo hoping there is a special entrance for ticket holders. Thankfully there is.
We are directed first to the crypt which has the mosaic floor remnants of an earlier church and a handful of tomb covers. The interior is very large, but surprisingly for such a famous church with a nice facade, it is almost barren inside. Several monuments are just painted on a wall. Only the dome ceiling is decorated.
We wander back towards the hotel and elect to visit the Laurentian Library attached to the Medici’s home church of San Lorenzo. It is on the opposite side from the their chapel. Michelangelo designed it to hold the Medici books. It has an elegant neoclassical marble staircase with a very long elongated reading room. Deep benches line both sides. Did the Medici ever have this many reading visitors?
For lunch we ordered Lasagna with our salad. It was so tasty we ordered a second serving. We followed it up with Tiramisu for dessert again.
Italians like to do their ‘passeggiata’ (city stroll) in the evening. Since we are getting up early tomorrow, we do ours in the late afternoon. We think briefly about climbing the Duomo Bell Tower. Instead we walk north ending at the Fortrezza da Basso. This castle guarded the northern gate of the city. During Cosimo’s time it held troops ready to quell rebellion. It is now the city’s exhibition center.
We stroll back south past the Duomo to Piazza della Signoria getting one last look of the fine sculpture in the adjoining Loggia dei Lanzi. Aimee spends some time shopping for Italian yarn, while I check out a cook making pasta in a restaurant window. Italian pasta comes in a huge variety of shapes. Back at the hotel we retired early.
0 Comments:
Post a Comment
<< Home