May 4, 2007

May 4, 2007

We start the day back at the Grand Canyon’s south rim Visitors Center. It is relatively small but has an interesting relief map of the canyon where we can trace our hiking path down to the bottom and back. From there we head west to join a ranger-led Fossil Walk. Aimee and I are able to identify lots of ancient sponges and shellfish popping out of the rocks at our feet.

Afterwards we take one of the park shuttle busses a few miles west to view a couple more overlooks of the canyon. But we are just seeing a small part, as the Grand Canyon is hundreds of miles long and mostly inaccessible. Back at the village, we retrieve the car and head towards the east entrance of the park. Just before exiting we stop at the Desert View vista. Here the canyon is noticeably shallower and is missing the granite Inner Gorge. The weather has cooled considerably and is quite windy. We were lucky we had mild weather in the canyon. Any colder and we would have been in trouble on the hike out. If we ever do the hike down again we need to remember to check the long-range weather forecast.

Heading southeast from the Grand Canyon, we pass by the Little Colorado River gorge. The Little Colorado is a small tributary that has its own steep canyon. I would be impressed if we hadn’t just left the Grand Canyon. Farther south we find the loop-road turnoff for both the Wupatki National Monument and Sunset Crater. The route turns out be a long unpleasant washboard gravel road. I almost turn back several times. We eventually arrive at the Wupatki Visitors center where we learn the road is paved five miles farther down the road. Thank God. Wupatki is an old Indian ruins set amongst some red desert rocks. It is mildly interesting. The one item of interest to me is a geologic curiosity near the village. A desert blowhole. A small opening in the ground is blowing out cold air. Apparently it is attached to an underground cavern that breaths with the changing air temperature. If I were an Indian living here, I would have built my house over the hole for instant air-conditioning.

From Wupatki, we continue along the loop-road to Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument. I am quite disappointed with the park's lack of signage, uncaring staff, and mediocre visitors center. The park is not living up to its potential. What I am able to piece together is that northern Arizona has had lots of volcanic activity. Sunset Crater is the latest. Around 1064AD, a cinder cone volcano erupted here. Because the magma was relatively fluid, instead of exploding, the volcano spewed a magma fountain into the air. The magma cooled and fell back to the ground as cinders. Later lava flowed from the volcano sides. Since this area is very dry little has changed in the last 1000 years. Sunset Crater is a mountain size pile of black cinders with only a few pine trees growing on it. Off to the side is a small lava field the same as we have seen in Hawaii. The main crater is off-limits but we climb up its smaller sister, Lenox crater. Thank goodness it is smaller as it is not an easy hike. It is like climbing a steep sand dune. Two steps up and slide down a step. Also the wind seems to be getting stronger and I am not dressed for cold. Arizona at times has to be the windiest place in the world.

Before leaving the park, Aimee spots a large blue bird; we later learn it is a Stellars Jay, a larger cousin of the common Blue Jay of the Midwest. We spend the night back in Flagstaff.