September 12, 2009

September 12, 2009

Our next stop on the Santa Fe Trail is Pecos National Historic Park. Pecos is the location of Glorieta Pass that would become important during the Civil War. Hundred of years before it was critical for the Pueblo Indians that lived here. Glorieta Pass is the connection between the Rio Grande Valley and the Pecos River valley of the Great Plains. The Indians living here became wealthy controlling trade between the nomadic tribes of the plains and Indians of the Southwest. The Indians of the Southwest relied on agriculture and built permanent settlements in the form of adobe condominiums called pueblos. The park museum has a good but concise history of the area from Coronado’s exploration thru Spanish colonization and religious conversion.

From the Visitor Center we walk the loop around the ruins. There is little left of the large Pueblo except a squarish circle of dirt around a central coutryard. More complete is the mission church the Spanish priests built next door. The pueblo was eventually abandoned after Comanche raiders from Texas devastated the trading business. By the time Santa Fe travelers passed by, the pueblo was already in ruins.

From Pecos we drive west completing our trail adventure at Santa Fe. Needing another guidepost, we decide to follow the Coronado trail. Coronado was the first European to explore the Southwest. He unsuccessfully searched for the fabled seven cities of gold. The Pecos Puebloans had sent him towards Kansas hoping he would not survive.


The Coronado trail heads west from Albuquerque. Less than an hour later we reach the exit for Acoma Pueblo. Having learned about pueblos this morning, we decide we want to see a complete one. We picked a good one to visit. Acoma is nicknamed “Sky City” and claims to be the oldest continuously occupied city in the US. For protection from hostile tribes, the pueblo was built atop a lone mesa. The only access was to climb the cliff walls.
After paying a stiff fee, we hop aboard a small bus for a tour. Acoma is a perfect example of anachronism. On one side the tribe wants to retain its old way of life with no running water, no electricity , no sewer, and adobe building materials. On the other hand, they want the modern lifestyle with a new paved road, cars, modern doors and windows, and generators to watch TV. The wonderful view off the mesa rim is marred with a line of modern outhouses. Acoma is a tacky slum in a gorgeous setting. After the interesting walking tour, we opt to hike back down to the entrance station and spend the night in Grants, NM.