April 12, 2014

April 12, 2014

From our hotel we take a trolley car to the center of Hiroshima. Within yards of our stop is the famous T-shaped bridge that was ground zero for the first drop of an atomic bomb on August 6, 1945 8:15am. Hiroshima was wiped out. In the intervening years Hiroshima has been completely rebuilt. Except for one domed building left behind as a memorial. This iconic structure only survives with the help of bracing.

An adjoining area was left free of redevelopment. This Peace Memorial Park has a number of monuments to the victims. At the opposite end is the Peace Memorial Museum.

We spent the rest of the morning there. It turned out to be very interesting. One wing is dedicated to history. Hiroshima was a military center and was spared from conventional attack during WWII so the A-bomb’s destruction could be evaluated. I was amused by several references to how Japan was selected as the target (as if there was another enemy still fighting) and how the US only dropped it to justify the huge cost of development. The other museum wing was devoted to the effects of the blast. It contained lots of melted artifacts, including watches permanently stopped at 8:15.

From Hiroshima, we took a local train south along the coast and boarded a ferry to Miyajima Island. Located in the Inland Sea, it is celebrated as one of the three most scenic spots in Japan. Miyajima has long been a sacred island and home of Itsukushima Shrine and its famous floating Torii. As we approach, we can see it is not really floating. The tide is out and the huge gate is in the middle of a mud flat surrounded by a horde of tourists.

Our ryokan has a shuttle waiting to meet the ferry. We are too early to check in, so we decide to explore the island in the interim. We buy some chicken skewers for lunch. We have to eat them quickly as several aggressive deer roam the area. When they aren’t begging for food handouts, they are eating the cherry petals on the ground. After taking a few photos of the Torii, we ride two cable cars up to the central peak of the island. At least it was supposed to be the peak. It was still a long uphill climb to the true island top. Once there we were blessed with great views of the other islands in the surrounding Inland Sea.

Instead of riding back, we hiked down a trail back to the harbor.  While scenic, it was not stunning.  But then again we are jaded after seeing so many of America’s National Parks.  I was hoping to see some of the Japanese wild macaques that inhabit the island but they were nowhere to be seen.  Near the end of the trail, we stop at Daisho-in Temple.  This temple has it all.  Built on the side of a steep hill, it has gardens, statues, koi pond, a large bronze bell, and a lantern hall.  It also has a bunch of metal wheels inscribed with Buddhist sutra.  I give them a speed-read spin.

We check into the ryokan and find it to be our nicest accommodations by far. Our room comes with a sitting room facing the Floating Torii and Hiroshima Bay. The restaurant was very accommodating in the Kaiseki menu and allowed us to substitute lots of cooked alternatives. Still it had many items uniquely Japanese. The meal included a tiny glass of Plum liqueur, Kobe beef we cooked ourselves on a hot stone (sukiyaki), eel boiled in a pot of broth, and baked oysters.

After dinner, we walked out to take evening photos of the Torii. The tide is in and it is truly “floating” now. First built in the 6th century when commoners were not allowed to step foot on the sacred island, the torii was built in the water so pilgrims could sail under the gate and approach the shrine without landing. As I try to take photos, the tradition continues, as I have to fight tour boats cruising under the torii.

Of course after we return to our room, Aimee wants to visit the onsen. She can’t wait to bathe naked with the geishas again.