August 15, 2015

August 15, 2015

This morning we left Stuttgart and took the train west back to the Rhine River at Karlsruhe.   We learned yesterday Carl Benz was born here. My great great paternal grandfather, Andreas, was also a local, born in a little town on the outskirts. We are here to investigate my family roots, so we take a suburban train seven minutes north to Blankenloch.  We stop at the city hall to check records to no avail; it is Saturday and is closed. Down the street is St Michael’s Church where Andreas was baptized.  It is also locked.  Attached is the large parish graveyard.  We walk through hoping to see his father Ludwig’s grave or at least a familiar last name. Aimee and I are shocked to only see very modern graves.  After a complete circuit, we finally find a little corner with a memorial to the war dead and a wall with loads of names that died during WW II. Nothing older.  I tried my limited German on a groundskeeper who motioned that the old graves were gone. I couldn’t discern if they were bombed out or deliberately moved.  Either way the memorial just reminds me that this heavily industrialized area was devastated by the war.  It really brings home what a tragedy it was for the people who lived here.

My great great grandfather emigrated to the USA in early 1845. Most of the Germans who left for America came from this German state.  Why?  Probably for any number of reasons. This area was a center of the German Industrial Revolution. Many were pushed off farms by mechanization. Others chafed under the authoritarian monarchies that dominated the German states.  Only a few years later revolution rocked Karlsruhe.  Marriage was also restricted to those gainfully employed. Maybe Andreas had to leave to legitimize his wife and children.  Either way we know Andreas and Ludwig moved around.  A sister was baptized in an eastern suburb, and Andreas’ exit papers showed his last residence was a third small town ten miles away.  Where Ludwig died is a mystery.

With no better answers forthcoming, we took the tram to the center of Karlsruhe. A former royal hunting ground, the local king, Karl, decided to move his home here and build himself a new palace in 1715.  Hence the name Karlsruhe or Karls Rest. The palace is magnificent, no wonder the emerging German middle class revolted against this excess. From the circular grounds streets radiate outward in this planned city and provided inspiration for the layout of Washington DC.  

Next to the palace is the main shopping street.  It is packed. After a little shopping, we eat a delicious Thai lunch, and then head back to the train station where we catch the local express south to Freiburg.

Aimee and I were asleep at the wheel on our train journey and neglected to notice we had to get off the train in Offenburg and catch a different one.  We caught our mistake early, got off at the next station and 45 minutes later caught a local back to Offenburg.  We eventually make it to Freiburg, an hour later than planned and very chastened by our mistake.

In Freiburg, we drop our luggage at the hotel and take the tram into the Old Center.  It is also crowded.  Freiburg must be a popular weekend hangout.  After walking around we discover why.  It is a very cute town that meshes the colorful old buildings with modern shopping very well.  (note the picture of an old city gate with McDonalds by its side) The city center is a maze of cobblestone alleyways lined with small street gutters with flowing water.  Local kids love to float little boats in them.  The jewel of Freiburg is the Munster towering over the city.  It is a Gothic beauty.  Unfortunately it should be nicknamed Cathedral of Perpetual Scaffolding.  But I guess that is what it takes to maintain 800 year-old buildings in pristine condition.  We should have allotted more time in Freiburg.  Our one hour quickie tour leaves us wanting more.