September 7, 2015

September 7, 2015

Our fairy tale Rothenburg burst today.  We awoke not only to a drizzling rain, but it is also Monday and the festival is over. The re-enactors have brought in their cars and they are packing up their medieval tents.  The city of Rothenburg allows cars inside the wall on weekdays.  All this means we are dragged back into the present.  With our spirits broken, we wait to the last minute before checking out of our hotel and heading to the train station. We buy tickets and an hour later we arrive in Wurzburg.

After checking in to our hotel, we head around the corner to have lunch in the Burgerspital.  Spital is German for hospital. Wurzburg seems to be slightly unique in Germany.  Instead of lots of beer halls, it has medieval hospitals that finance their charity by producing wine.  The Franconia region produces a different style of wine (drier) than the normal Rieslings of Germany.  I think they are better and perhaps that is why the Spitals were able to make money for their charity work. Incidentally, the last few days we have been in the Franconia region of Bavaria.  Napoleon gave Franconia to the Bavarian king but it has been resented ever since.  Franconians don’t like being called Bavarians.

After lunch we head down the street to the Residenz. This is the palace of the prince archbishop that ruled this area.  We start our tour by walking the gardens in the back.  Aimee likes the sculpted trees, while we both love the wide variety of colorful flowers.

At 3 pm we meet up with our English guide who takes us through the interior of the palace.  He is great.  As a PhD student doing his dissertation on the bishops, he is a font of knowledge on the history of this palace.  The Holy Roman Emperor gave several cities to prince archbishops because they were easier to manage than kings.  There were no heirs to worry about and incompetent bishops could be fired and replaced.  The Residenz is a World Heritage Site because it is a Baroque masterpiece with several ceiling frescoes by Tiepolo.  I got a couple photos before I learned that pics were not allowed.  I wish I could have taken more, but some rooms were just not capable of being appreciated by photo. They have to be experienced.

In the last room, we see a large photo of Wurzburg in 1945. The city was wiped out.  I feel like I am repeating myself, because I have said that everywhere.  It seems only a few spots in Germany were spared complete destruction.  The Residenz got hit with bombs, but the ceilings of the two largest rooms were constructed so solidly, they survived.  Also a US Monuments Man (think George Clooney movie) quickly erected a temporary ceiling to protect what remained from further damage.  Much of the Residenz has since been beautifully restored.  We also walked inside the Residenz chapel on our own.  It likewise has an excellent Baroque Tiepolo decor.

Afterwards, we walked a little around Old Town Wurzburg. Little survived.  Mostly it is modern Wurzburg with a few old buildings thrown in.  One stop was St Kilian Cathedral. St Kilian was one of three Irish monks who christianized Wurzburg. Unfortunately this martyr ended up losing his head, literally. The church has nothing noteworthy.  It is starting to drizzle again so we head back to the hotel.

For dinner we went to the other major hospital winery in town.  It just happens to be across the square from our hotel.  Both Aimee and I selected white wines.  We tasted each others and then we traded.  I do like drinking for charity, but I have to say I miss my beer.