October 30, 2018

October 30, 2018

Morocco is a sliver of fertile ground on the northwest coast of Africa separated from the rest of the continent by the Atlas Mountains. Today we are going to explore the eastern side of Morocco that abuts the Sahara Desert. Unfortunately the cold rainy weather here brought early snow to the mountains. Yesterday the passes were closed. The roads are now clear so we head southeast from Fez quickly climbing the Middle Atlas range. We soon arrive in the ski town of Ifrane. Its ski chalets and peaked roofs look European, not Moroccan. We stop for the restroom and a chance to play in the snow.

Continuing across the Middle Atlas we passed through the cedar forest of Ifrane National Park stopping once to watch a colony of Barbary Macaque monkeys. They seem much larger than the Japanese version. We then traversed a barren cold treeless snowy tundra. Or at least I think I did. My arm felt like a windshield wiper constantly clearing the fogging window.

We eventually descended into the snow-less desert valley separating the Middle and High Atlas Mountain ranges. We see a few nomads trying to eke out a living. There is barely any grass for their sheep in this plain. We stop for lunch and have a delicious vegetarian pizza.

We start our ascent of the snow-capped High Atlas Mountains. This range is cut by deep ravines and canyons reminiscent of Arizona. The eastern side is in the rain shadow of the Atlas Range and is dry as a bone. The descent follows the Ziz Gorge. Passing a dam and reservoir, the road descends into a shallow Canyon filled with date palms. This Ziz River Canyon is a thin ribbon of oasis in the desert. Being on the eastern edge of the Atlas the Ziz River peters out in the Sahara.

We stop for the night in a resort in the desert town of Erfoud. Our hotel is like a fortified Kasbah with walls, camels, and Berber Nomad staff. Our room looks like it was made for the Flintstones with reed roof, fossil rock sink and crystal lights. We have a delicious buffet for dinner. After an all day bus ride, we need it.