May 4, 2019

May 4, 2019

Overnight we sailed to a new island. I woke in the middle of the night with the ship rolling in swells. I made the immediate decision that we are never going to cruise around the world or any excursion crossing rough waters (e.g. Antarctica). When we awake we are moored off San Cristobal Island, at Puerto B. Moreno, the capital of the Galapagos Islands.

Some 25,000 people live on the islands, mostly here and one other town. 97% of the land is set aside as a National Park. Immigration to the Galapagos is restricted and residents aren't allowed to expand outside current areas. Tourism is also regulated and all activities have to be supervised by a licensed guide in a group no larger than 16.

In the morning we did a dry landing on the port dock. We boarded a bus to cross the island. San Cristobal is significantly more lush than Baltra. The Galapagos Islands are volcanic formed, like Hawaii, by a moving hotspot. The westernmost islands are active and lava-paved, the middle mature islands are tall enough to gather rain clouds and produce vegetation, while the eastern islands are eroded and almost gone. This terrain diversity is what caused the island adaptations that Darwin documented.

The bus stopped at the Giant Tortoise Breeding Center. Large tortoises used to be common in South America but now only exist in isolated predator-free islands like the Galapagos. Sailors realized that tortoises can live a year without food and water, making them a source of fresh meat on long voyages. They loaded them on ships by the tens of thousands almost bringing the Galapagos Tortoise to extinction. Invasive rats eating their eggs added to the loss. Fortunately breeding centers are bringing them back. We walked around the Conservancy seeing lots of giant adults, and later a nursery that raises the babies until they are six years old. Humorously the males chase the smaller females in a slow motion sexual pursuit.

After returning to port we window-shopped a little and then watched Sea Lions basking along the shore. The highlight was watching a mother nursing a pup. Sea Lions nurse their young up to a year.

Back on the ship, while we had lunch, our ship travelled around the island to the northern tip of San Cristobal, called Punta Pitt. As lunch was finishing we noticed a large school of dolphins following the boat and jumping to show off. There was also a flock of Frigate Birds overhead hoping to acquire an easy meal flushed up by the Dolphins. They are nicknamed Pirate Birds because they are infamous for using their aerodynamics and size to steal from other birds in mid-air. To me, soaring Frigates resemble Jurassic-era Pterodactyls.

Guests aboard the ship have been divided into small groups and assigned a permanent naturalist. We are also given an animal name, like Albatross or Iguanas. Aimee hoped we would get the Boobies group because she loves the blue feet of one iconic species. She got her wish. Being called the Boobies has humorously led to many "double entendre" quips.

In the afternoon, we made a wet landing on Punta Pitt. We then hiked up the eroded volcanic cliff. At the top Aimee was thrilled to see several Blue Footed Boobies nesting on the ground at the cliff edge. Many were incubating two eggs; one had a newly hatched chick. Interestingly they poop in a circle around the nest site and we got to witness the creation.

Further on, we saw a couple Red Footed Boobies. While Blues nest on the ground, these smaller cousins nest in trees. They have developed longer toes to grab branches.

Back on the beach we snorkeled for thirty minutes seeing lots of colorful fish, but no playful Sea Lions. In particular Aimee liked the beautiful King Angelfish.

Returning to the boat we used the Jacuzzi to warm up before showering. While having a drink on the back deck, we noticed Flying Fish off the side. Going down to the lowest deck we were delighted to watch a couple Sea Lions chasing Flying Fish attracted to the boat’s lights. To evade capture, the Flying Fish leap out of the water and glide on their "wings" some 50 yards. Half the time, it seemed the Sea Lion would race ahead anticipating where the fish would reenter capturing a meal.

After dinner, we returned to the aft lower deck to find the Sea Lions still hard at work chasing Flying Fish. No wonder Sea Lions sleep all day. They put in a long night of high speed fishing.