September 7, 2019

September 7, 2019

We took another day trip from the Costa del Sol today. This time we drove southwest along the Mediterranean to Spain’s southern tip. The mountainous coastline is filled with condos and hotels with dozens of golf courses. It seems the ease of travel within the European Union is allowing the richer (and colder) northern countries to buy second homes here. The weather in Spain is warmer and sunnier, the food is better, and the cost of living is less. Tourism probably keeps the Spanish economy going.

In ninety minutes we reach the city of La Linea, or in English “The Line”. This refers to the border with the UK, or at least a little piece of it called Gibraltar. This mountain-size rock was seized by the Brits in 1704 so they could control trade passing into and out of the Mediterranean Sea. Ownership of Gibraltar has been a continuous bone of contention with Spain, who wants it back. Spain's credibility leaves something to be desired since they likewise own two little overseas enclaves on the Moroccan coast.

In Gibraltar we leave the vehicle and pass through separate Spanish and UK border stations. We then board minibuses, and drive across the runway of the Gibraltar Airport to reach the Rock. The weather turned windy and hazy today so the visibility is poor and we cannot see across the strait to Morocco.

Our mini-bus driver gave us a guided tour of this 2.5 square mile peninsula. There is almost no flat land. We stop at the far southern end to look at a gun emplacement that used to guard the strait. I was shocked to see a mosque built by Saudi Arabia. But really I shouldn't be. To the Romans this was one of the Pillars of Hercules. But since the 711AD conquest by the Muslim invader Tariq, it has been called Mount Tariq. In Arabic 'Jabal Tariq', whence we get the Anglicized name 'Gibraltar'. 

Most of the upper portions of the Rock are part of the Gibraltar Nature Reserve. We followed some switchback roads to climb up into it. At St. Michaels Cave we ran into a troop of Barbary Apes. These macaques were climbing onto the vans, and posing for photos. While I was leaning down photographing a little baby, one used my back as a stepping stone across a fence.

St. Michaels is one of many dozens of natural and man-made caves that pepper this limestone monolith. Since land is at a premium, the interior has been setup as a concert hall. It is lit up by colored lights which make an interesting juxtaposition with the natural cave decorations.

We finish on the western edge of the peninsula which has a small town and almost all the flat land. We stroll the main drag window shopping. Humorously we see quite a few old British red telephone booths. The streets are decorated with Union Jacks and Gibraltar flags because their National Day is on Wednesday. On that day, which commemorates the citizenry voting to stay with the UK, everybody dresses up in red and white, and parties all day. In Casement Square, we stop for a proper British Pub meal of Fish ‘n’ Chips.

In the afternoon we return to our beach hotel in Torremolinos, but not before passing through the UK and Spanish border stations again.