February 24, 2022

February 24, 2022

We got as good a sleep as can be expected with our bodies not fully accepting the jet lag of international travel. After breakfast in the hotel, we meet our tour group mid-morning. More than half the group started with the optional pre-tour to Jordan and Petra. The tour director gives us some particulars on Egyptian tourism. I learned most of the tour sites will charge extra for the use of a camera, but oddly not for photos with your phone. Egypt has greatly expanded their playbook in taxing tourists.

Meidum Geese

Afterwards our group heads down the street to the Egyptian Museum of Antiquities. On the way we pass Tahrir Square where the Arab Spring protests took place.

This old classic museum has the largest and finest collection of Egyptian antiquities. The government is in the process of moving the entire collection to the new Grand Egyptian Museum. Its opening has been delayed for months and months and unfortunately many items have already been moved. Despite that, there is still lots to see. We get a guided tour of the highlights remaining on a chronological basis.

Egyptian history begins with the Narmer Palette. It is a shield-shaped carved stone containing some of the first hieroglyphics documenting Narmer as the first king to unite Upper and Lower Egypt. His cartouche has a catfish (Nar) and a chisel (Mer). It is 5100 years old and in near pristine condition!

The most interesting items for me in the museum are the ones that combine history with great artisanship. I recognize one painted sculpture of a sitting scribe from the 200 Egyptian Pound note that I took out of the ATM this morning.

Rahotep & Neferet

The Egyptian Museum is overwhelming. That is partly because of the huge quantity of items on display. The other is because of the mind-boggling span of time that the Egyptian era covers. Ancient Egypt thrived not for decades nor even centuries, but three millennia. This is far far longer than any other civilization. Literally thousands and thousands of tombs are scattered throughout the country and they continue to be unearthed. Because of the dry desert weather, the majority of artifacts are in an excellent state of preservation despite their astonishing age.

Coffin of Thuya

Unfortunately the museum suffers from a distinct lack of signage. Much of the artifacts are unlabeled. That is probably why on my first trip many years ago, I was both overwhelmed and underwhelmed at the same time. Having a guide and studying Egyptology helps me appreciate the museum much better this time around. There are a few objects like the Treasure of Tanis (from Raiders of the Ark) that rival Tut’s tomb that have been already transferred to the GEM.

Our last major stop is Tut’s tomb treasures. His artifacts are astonishing, not because he was an important king, but because he was so insignificant, his tomb was overlooked and lost for millennia. His funeral mask is 22 lbs of solid gold. Unfortunately no photography is allowed. The mask is the one thing I remember of my first visit. What I don't remember is all the associated funerary goods, like his sandals and throne. They are also impressive but difficult to photograph because of their security behind glass and garish lighting. I like that after studying a little Hieroglyphics I can recognize his cartouche and translate his name. Interestingly on the throne is carved his early name of Tut-Ankh-Aten before he changed it to Tut-Ankh-Amun after his father (a "heretical" worshiper of the god Aten) died.

Tomb of Meketre

We finish our tour wandering rapidly through miscellaneous halls of archeology. The number of artifacts is staggering. It is comparable to trying to see the Louvre Art Museum in Paris in a couple hours. 

After resting up at the hotel, we met the tour group in the evening for a welcome drink. Then we walked to a nearby Lebanese restaurant called Taboula for dinner. We had a wide variety of spiced meats and finger foods washed down with some Sakara beer. We are hoping for a deep sleep tonight.