May 16, 2022

May 16, 2022

We left Antalya, Turkey heading northwest. We had to climb the Taurus Mountains again. In the foothills is carved a giant Ataturk face just like our Mt. Rushmore. At our first rest stop, we decided to buy some Ice cream because it is dessert time at home.

Our next stop was in the town of Korkuteli. They were having their weekly market. It is spread out over a large area and people have stalls selling anything a household would need. I find it fascinating that many countries in the world, no matter how advanced (eg Europe/Australia), have inefficient retail operations. There is no Walmart or department store here. 

We stop for lunch at a cafe overlooking the town of Denizli in the Menderes River valley. In Greek, it was called the Meander River. Its winding route is the source of our meaning.

On the north side of town we see a white scar on the hillside. This is Pamukkale. In Turkish this name means Cotton Castle and that is probably a good description for the hot springs here. Like Mammoth Hot Springs in Yellowstone, the water bubbling up is full of minerals. On exposure to air the lime precipitates forming cascading Travertine pools of turquoise water. Unlike Yellowstone, these springs have been a tourist magnet for thousands of years drawing major development. Newly built spa hotels have been built diverting water to their private thermal baths. As a result the water going to this natural ‘cotton castle’ has to be rationed. Sections of the immense wall of white are now only intermittently watered.

Like all over the world, hot springs were considered to be therapeutic. A huge Greco-Roman city grew up around this one called Hierapolis (sacred city). Our first stop is one of the original thermal pools that is open to the public. In the 7th century a major earthquake hit destroying the city. This waterhole nicknamed ‘Cleopatra’s pool’ still has downed marble columns and pediments strewn along the bottom. I change into my swimming trunks and swim through the tepid water. It seems kind of dirty so I don't spend much time in it.

Afterwards Aimee and I walk through the World Heritage city ruins. We start outside the walls in the necropolis. Many of those hoping to be healed died and were buried here in elaborate tombs. We walk back through the main city gate along Frontinus Street towards the city theater and main public baths.

Inside the ruins of the bath complex with its arched walls is a small museum of relics. It would be interesting except for the fact we have visited some outstanding museums on our trip. Surprisingly we see some Egyptian god statues in the museum. We also meet a young Iranian Catholic girl who recently moved to Turkey.

We then check into our hotel on the outskirts of Hierapolis. This resort hotel has a thermal pool that is one contributor to the water loss at Pamukkale.

In the late evening, we cross the street to attend a Whirling Dervish demonstration. We watch three Sufi men who meditate while spinning in long white dresses. The skirts must be weighted somehow to make them billow into these umbrella like forms. After the performance we have a buffet dinner in the hotel.