May 18, 2022

May 18, 2022

We left bright and early this morning to tour the ancient Roman city of Ephesus. In Turkish the name is Efes. I didn't realize I have been drinking Ephesus beer throughout Turkey.

The World Heritage city of Ephesus is huge. In classical times it was the second largest city after Rome. We arrived just after opening. The city was built on a sloping valley. Most of the ruins lie on both sides of the main road that descends down the center. We start at the top entrance and work our way downhill. Our first stop is the Bouleuterion Theater (City Council Chamber).

Next we visit the Terrace Houses. This is the most unique part of Ephesus. These are the recently excavated luxury villas of the wealthy citizens. They lived in a wonderfully decorated series of stacked condominium houses, like you would see in modern seaside resorts. Each home was built around an open courtyard and probably had a deck with a view to the sea. Inlaid mosaic tiles covered the floors, and some of the walls were faced with veined marble slabs like you would see in some upscale hotels. Others are painted with frescoes. This area reminds me of Pompeii in Italy.

Just down the main street is the Library of Celsus, the icon of Ephesus. The reconstructed facade is very ornate. In its day, it was the third largest library. The interior space, with niches lining the walls, is surprisingly small. Since scrolls were handwritten, they were rare and expensive and highly treasured.

Any large city has to have a sophisticated plumbing system for supplying water and carrying away waste. The Romans were experts at this municipal technology. We see the terracotta pipes they used exposed everywhere. The interlocking segments look just like the modern version. They must have been produced in massive identical quantities. It was the probably the world's first interchangeable manufactured item.

Aimee cringes when we visit the public restroom. This latrine aside a bathhouse is truly 'public'. I guess this is one way to really get to know your neighbors. Fortunately, it had constantly running water to drown out some of our inconvenient and embarrassing noises.

Farther down the street is another feature that is in good condition, the Great Theater. And great it is. It is the largest theater in the classical world holding 25,000 people in three tiers. The stage is enormous.

After the guided portion of our visit, Aimee and I tried to visit the Terrace Houses again, but we learn our two-week Turkish Heritage pass is limited to a single site visit to each location. We tried to take some better photos of some sights, but the crowd has swelled considerably. The big downside of Ephesus is its close proximity to cruise ship ports of call. When these floating cities arrive, they overwhelm the destination.

We finish by walking around the Agora market ruins ending at the harbor road. Or what would have been the harbor. The Little Meander River silted up in antiquity leaving Ephesus high and dry and abandoned. Today the water is three miles away!

Ephesus also had important biblical connections. St Paul preached here (e.g. Letter to the Ephesians) and it is believed that St John and the Virgin Mary likely lived here after Jesus was crucified.

Back in Kusadasi, we spent the afternoon exploring the Old Town. We celebrated our morning adventure with a refreshing Efes beer at a dive Irish Pub. We wandered the narrow lanes window shopping. We stopped at the 17th century fortress-like Caravanserai. It is now a hotel. Jimmy Carter once stayed here on a visit to Ephesus.

The origins of the city lie on a little island now connected to the mainland by a causeway. A substantial castle was built atop it by the great Ottoman Admiral Barbarossa. We climb its ramparts. There are many interesting storyboards about the local flora.

In the evening we have our farewell dinner with the tour group at a local restaurant. We walk back to our room along the picturesque waterfront.