December 1, 2022

December 1, 2022

We awoke in Quintin Lodge on the Milford Track in New Zealand, had breakfast and made our sack lunch. We assembled outside as a group again. Just as we were leaving, a Kea, or Mountain Parrot, landed on the tin roof above our head. Their plumage is jungle green. Great camouflage. No wonder we couldn't spot it before. Keas are notorious for curiosity with their hard beaks. They will open backpacks and pry rubber parts off cars. We watched as the Kea checked every nail and screw on the lodge roof hoping to find something loose.

Not long after setting out we got a long distance view of Sutherland Falls. For me that is good enough. My ankles and toes are very thankful I didn't hike to see it yesterday afternoon.

Our last leg of the Milford Track is mostly flat but at 13.5 miles the longest yet. Thankfully the rain has mostly gone. The track follows the forest for much of the route. I can tell that rainfall is heavier in this more westerly valley. The Fern Trees have returned.

There are few vistas in the dense forest canopy. We get glimpses of the Arthur River that flows down the center of the valley. It is wide and has lakes along its length.

We don’t stop for lunch until after the ten mile mark. We eat on the rocks by the scenic Giant Gate waterfall. The one negative of sunshine and no rain in Fiordlands is Sandflies. They are the New Zealand equivalent of our mosquito. They swarm and bite, and insect repellent seems to have little effect. We sit as close to the water spray as possible to keep them at bay. At the same time we have to fend off a persistent Weka that investigates every backpack looking for food.

The last three miles seem to never end, but they finally do and we reach the 33.5-milepost marking our successful completion of the Milford Track at Sandfly Point.

We then wait for the small boat launch that ferries us the short distance across Milford Sound to our accommodations. We get lucky and the captain allows me to squeeze on with Aimee on the next transfer.

At Mitre Peak Lodge we have our best view yet out our room window. And we can see some blue sky! And the top of Mitre Peak is visible. That is a rarity in the rain forest. We also unpack the bag we sent ahead. It is nice to have clean clothes and comfy shoes. We have a celebratory drink at the bar which also has a nice view of Milford Sound.

At every lodge we had communal drying rooms. A couple people complained of missing items. At our last briefing this evening, one Australian was reunited with a pair of missing underwear. In true Aussie fashion he decided to prove to everyone in the room it was his by mooning us!