Friday, September 15, 2023

September 14, 2023

September 14, 2023

We left the Norfolk, VA area in rush hour traffic, heading southeast for the Atlantic coast. Once there we take a bridge to Bodie Island and the Outer Banks. Driving south along this barrier island, we pass a continuous line of beach houses. Just south of the town of Kitty Hawk we stop at the Wright Brothers National Memorial. 120 years ago, in December 1903, Orville and Wilbur Wright made history with four successful manned airplane flights.

We start in the Visitor Center with its replica of the Wright Flyer and the story of how they came here over the course of several years. The first years were learning to fly and control a glider and achieving enough lift to carry a human. Only in 1903 did they add a motor and propellers. We take flight for granted today, but at the turn of the last century, there had been a long history of failed attempts.

Outside, there is a stone monument marking the spot where the flight occurred. They picked this location because of its seclusion, constant winds, and soft sandy terrain. It is still very windy, but today, it is crowded with avid tourists, and grass has been planted to stabilize the sand dunes.

In the distance is a large sand dune with a huge white Memorial on it. This would have been where they launched their glider flights. The sand hill has probably shifted from its location 120 years ago. We hike up to the dune top for a better look.

On the far side of the sand dune is a bronze statue of the Wright Flyer and all the people who witnessed the event including the amateur photographer. Even though the longest flight that day was only 59 seconds, it must have seemed like a miracle.

Leaving the Memorial we drive ten miles south to Cape Hatteras National Seashore, stopping at the Bodie Island Lighthouse Visitor Center. In olden days it took a team of people to lug oil up the staircase to keep the fire lit throughout the night.

We drove across Bodie Island to the beach and hiked along the sand dunes. They are quite scenic. If I needed convincing they are ephemeral I just had to look at the park sign almost completely buried in a shifting dune.

We then drove across Albemarle Sound to the small island of Roanoke to visit Fort Raleigh National Historic Site. Long before Jamestown, Sir Walter Raleigh and the English tried to establish a colony in North America. They wanted to use it as a base for raiding the treasure ships of the Spanish. In 1587, 115 men, women and children landed here. Not only were they unprepared, they didn’t foster good relations with the local Indians. Their resupply ship was delayed with the war against the Spanish Armada. When the English finally returned three years later, the Roanoke Colony was nowhere to be seen. To this day, their fate is a complete mystery.

After going through the Visitor Center displays, we listened to a ranger talk on the site's later Civil War history. In 1862, the Union invaded the island. They used it as a base to enforce the blockade of North Carolina ports.

Before leaving we walked out to see the 1896 monument dedicated to Virginia Dare. She is famous as the first child born to English parents on American soil.

From Roanoke Island we crossed another bridge to the mainland to follow the Outer Banks southward. Since the East Coast is pockmarked with deep inlets, we have to veer far inland, passing swamps, tobacco fields and pine forests. We end the day in New Bern, NC. New Bern was settled by Swiss immigrants and was the colonial capital of North Carolina. It is also the birthplace of Pepsi-Cola. Since we are in the Deep South, I have a delicious dinner of Country Fried Steak. Even Aimee thinks it is tasty too.

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