September 11, 2024

September 11, 2024

In Dresden, we had train noise when we opened our hotel window. Last night in Leipzig we had to listen to an annoying protest march. I think it was about Palestine.

This morning we are going to explore Leipzig’s Cold War history. Just behind our hotel is St. Nicholas Church. In 1989 it was the site of weekly mass gatherings to pray for peace and basic rights. This Peaceful Revolution contributed to the fall of the Iron Curtain, earning Leipzig the moniker City of Heroes. In reality, the new Russian president Gorbachev decided change was needed and Russia was no longer going to intervene in the Eastern Bloc. Sadly after decades of repression East Germans didn’t believe him.

Our next stop was the Contemporary History Forum. This museum covers the history of Leipzig and East Germany after 1945. The Soviets took over after WWII. They systematically moved East German factories to Russia, and put in place a socialist government-run economy. A 1953 Revolt was brutally crushed and children were indoctrinated into the new system. While everyone had a job, progress came to a halt and the East fell further behind their Western counterparts every year. With the gap widening, a wall had to be built to keep people from leaving. No amount of propaganda and censorship could hide the truth.

The museum continues with the fall of the Iron Curtain and reunification with West Germany. With privatization, older obsolete state factories shut down and unemployment skyrocketed. It was a very tough transition for East Germans. (N)Ostalgia for the old system became rampant. It almost seems to me this free museum was set up to remind East Germans what it was like before capitalism and freedom were re-established.

Outside the museum is a modern art sculpture that combines both Nazi and Soviet symbolism. To me it summarizes the museum perfectly. All forms of Socialism run headlong into human nature. In every instance, governments have no choice but to react with coercion. Only capitalism preserves personal freedom.

After this sad review of local history, we needed a mental break. We had a lunch of Soljanka washed down with some local beer. We then went to an historic cafe for coffee and dessert.

In the afternoon we checked out some brighter moments of local history. Leipzig was a music capital. We stopped at St Thomas Church where Johann Sebastian Bach was the music director. He is buried in the choir floor. Outside is a memorial to composer Felix Mendelsohn who introduced the world to this musical genius. Not far away we pass a memorial to opera composer Richard Wagner who was born in the city.

Our next stop was Leipzig University to peruse their small Egyptian Museum. I am always surprised at how many different cities and museums have significant collections. It is a testament to the millennia length of ancient Egyptian history.

Aimee needs some retail therapy after these museum sessions so we check out the mall underneath the main train station. For dinner we have Indian cuisine. We finish with drinks in the hotel bar.