September 13, 2009

September 13, 2009

From Grants, NM, we backtrack a little to drive down the east side of El Malpais National Monument. The name is Spanish for Badlands. This New Mexico version deserves the name more than the famous ones in the Dakotas. El Malpais is a huge gnarly lava field that fills the valley between sandstone cliffs. Driving south we stop at an overlook atop the cliff to look down at the lava expanse. We also hike to a natural arch formed in the cliff wall.


Returning back to the west side we stop to explore the lava field. When lava flows out of a volcano it often does so through lava tubes that lie just beneath the “solid” surface. Walking over the field we pass many locations where the ceiling collapsed exposing the empty tube below. In one case I leave Aimee behind and climb into one tube meeting her at the next exposed exit. The cave is surprisingly cool for just being ten feet below ground. We do the hike with a couple that look about our age. We discover that they quit their jobs in their 30’s and full time RV’ed for twelve years traveling the US, Mexico and Canada. They even wrote a book called “Take back your life”. No matter how adventurous we think we are, there is always somebody who tops us!


Just west of El Malpais is El Morro National Monument. Since this area was Spanish far longer than American I guess it is fitting the landmark names are all Spanish. El Morro is a huge sandstone promontory that was a landmark and critical oasis for travelers.


It could be called Inscription Rock because many of these Spaniards left their signature behind. “Paso por aqui” (passed by here) with a date and name is written everywhere. Incredibly the earliest is 1605 and is still very readable (with the help of charcoal). After looking at the historic graffiti we hike atop the mesa, see an Anasazi ruin, take in the view and then return to the Visitor Center.

From El Morro we continue west along the Coronado trail into Arizona. The trail turns due south following Rt. 191. We drove that way two years ago and although very scenic, it is probably the slowest and windiest paved road in America. We opt for the quicker route southwest where we descend into a Martian-like red desert landscape and spend the night in Showlow, AZ.