September 8, 2015
Instead of clearing skies, we woke to foggy weather in Wurzburg. The weatherman got it wrong. We spent the late morning walking around the very small Old Town. We never strayed too far from the Market Plaza. There are three churches clustered together. We saw one yesterday. The second, the New Munster is a large domed church that has some very modern brightly colored Impressionist paintings decorating it. This must have been a modern addtion after it was fire-bombed in WWII. The last, Marienkapelle is a small two-toned, burnt red and white, church with famous sculptures of Adam and Eve on the outside facade.
We took some time perusing the Farmer's Market. Aimee and I were both fascinated by a lady selling artichokes. She sadly told us many of her plants were ruined by a burst of hot weather that caused them to go to seed. We thought that a positive. The artichoke has a most beautiful flower. We had no idea!
Also on market plaza is the Old Rathaus (Town Hall). It looks old (and out of place) but it held a very interesting tiny room around back. Inside was a scale model of Wurzburg after it was bombed, just three weeks before the end of WWII. Virtually every building was in ruins. Lining the wall were a half dozen storyboards giving a dramatic and moving recount of the event.
A few blocks away is the Main (pronounced Mine) River and the Old Bridge spanning it. Built in 1133, it is the second oldest in Germany. Similar to Prague’s Bridge, it is lined with a dozen statues of Wurzburg’s saints and bishops. From the bridge we get a great view of the fortress above town and the vineyards lining the river. These riverside grape plants are the source of the local Franconian wine.
After lunch, the weather improved a little and we took a walk across the Main River and hiked uphill to the Fortress of Marienberg. This was the home of the Prince Archbishop before the Residenz was built, in the era when being ransacked by your neighbors was a distinct possibility. Marienberg is a bristling fortress with multiple layers of defensive walls. Inside the castle we toured the Prince Bishop Museum. It is only mildly interesting. We like the nice views looking down on Wurzburg better.
On the return to Wurzburg, we again cross the Old Bridge. This time we notice lots of people milling about drinking wine on the city end. It looks like fun to us, so we order two white Franconian wines from the Old Mill-turned wine bar and join the locals. We also toast our last night in Europe.
Afterwards we window shop a little and then have dinner at the Rathaus Cellar restaurant.
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