January 16, 2017

January 16, 2017

Today we are exploring more Vietnam War history by driving northwest of Saigon, to visit the Cu Chi Tunnel Complex, which has been preserved as a memorial park. During the war, this area was strongly anti-government and supported Viet Cong efforts. Needing a hiding place, the VC dug underground bunkers which expanded as the war dragged on into a network over a hundred miles long. The tunnels were a constant source of irritation to the US and proved so successful, that during the Tet Offensive, VC troops were able to infiltrate Saigon and attack the US Embassy.
 

We are touring the very touristy Ben Dinh section of the park. Our first stop is a lecture detailing the extent of the tunnel system and a diagram of a typical section.  It so resembles an ant’s nest and having battled ants at home, I can attest to the difficulty of removal.

We walk to several stations, where we learn how the entrances were disguised, how the tunnels were booby-trapped, and how fresh air was brought in and cooking fires dissipated.  We even got to crawl through a short stretch of a tunnel.

I found the tour to be utterly fascinating even though it was completely simulated for tourists.  This experience just reinforced for me how unwinnable the war was.  As the US got more desperate they resorted to scorched earth policies, using Agent Orange and carpet bombing, turning all civilian support against the effort.

Back in Saigon, all seventeen of us were invited to lunch at our guide’s tiny 2-bedroom apartment. He and his wife served a delicious home-made meal of Shrimp Spring Rolls, and a noodle soup with pork, chicken, prawns and quail eggs.  He then serenaded us with some guitar music.  Before leaving he gave us a shot of his home-made scorpion wine. Nasty!

On the way back to our hotel we made a quick stop at a craft shop.  This one was making lacquered art wall hangings using the traditional techniques of egg shell and paint. They were beautiful.

We also stopped at the Jade Emperor Pagoda. This is a temple of Taoism, a philosophical religion of Chinese origin.  The incense laden sanctuary is filled with menacing, black mustachioed figures. Interestingly, on the walk in, turtles, fish, and birds are offered for sale.  They are bought and then released as an offering.
 

Back at the hotel, we dropped off our backpack, and then walked to the nearby Ben Thanh market. We only have 40 minutes before closing.  Like in India we are beginning to tire of Asian markets. The need to always bargain is draining and unenjoyable.

From the market we continue on to the Rex Hotel where we find a seat at the rooftop bar. This was a famous hangout of military officers and war correspondents during the War. Our table overlooks City Hall and a small park containing a statue of Ho Chi Minh. The weather is delightful and the view captivating. An hour later several of our travelling companions join us for dinner.

An Australian couple, sitting nearby, regale us about getting hit by a motorcycle while walking, and the horrifying conditions of the local hospital. Aimee and I look at each other and agree to take a cab home instead of walking.