May 6, 2019

May 6, 2019

We awoke off the southern tip of Santa Cruz Island, the second largest of the Galapagos Islands. After breakfast we did a dry landing at Puerto Ayora, the largest town in the archipelago. We drove to the nearby Charles Darwin Research Station. This center coordinates the research done in the Galapagos. It also does Giant Tortoise Breeding for all the islands. Here they have Tortoises, side by side, that illustrate how the environment caused the animals to adapt to the individual islands. Lush islands with lots of vegetation kept the original dome-shaped shell (carapace). Tortoises on dry islands developed a longer neck and saddle-shaped shell that allowed them to stand on their hind legs and reach for higher vegetation. The prominence of these reptiles on every island is why the Spanish named them Islands of the Tortoises (Galapagos in Spanish).

Lonesome George was a famous last-known survivor of one Saddle-back specie endemic to Pinta Island. Unfortunately no females were ever found so when he died in 2012 his subspecies went extinct. They have his body stuffed in a special room. The best part is that room is air-conditioned and gives a very welcome break from the stifling equatorial humidity. The newest star of this breeding center is Diego. This last Saddle-back male from Espanola Island was discovered living in the San Diego Zoo. He was returned to the Galapagos and despite his elevated age has single-handedly produced a population boom. We had the pleasure of watching him eat and then “chase” several females. Just as we were leaving he successfully cornered one of his reluctant harem members.

Before leaving we toured the small onsite museum. From the research center we walked back to the town shopping along the way. Outside the local fishing dock, we stopped at a combination fish processor and market. We watched a lady as she skillfully filleted fish. Amusingly behind her were a bunch of Pelicans and one hungry Sea Lion just waiting for her to discard scraps. The Sea Lion followed her around like a puppy dog.

From the port we drove to the interior town of Bella Vista, where we got rental bikes. We pedaled two miles uphill to a Coffee and Sugar plantation. The best part of touring this operation was the Moonshine Still the owner uses to make Sugarcane Alcohol. He gave us a taste of his homemade Firewater.

We then drove to a Ranch in the interior highlands. The facility served us a delicious catered lunch. Afterwards we walked around the wooded grounds. Since it sits on the edge of the National Park. we see dozens of local Giant Tortoises in their natural habitat munching on vegetation and cooling off in mud holes. Scientists believe there are now 40,000 Tortoises in the Galapagos from the low of only 3000 in the 1970's.

Back at the port waiting for a Panga shuttle, we saw several small Black Tip Sharks cruising off the dock. With all these shark sightings, we might need to rethink snorkeling around here.