September 16, 2019

September 16, 2019

All five towns in the Cinque Terre are little villages tucked into the steep cliffside. They are linked by trails that traverse the National Park surrounding them. This morning we chose to hike north to the town of Monterosso al Mare, the northernmost of the five villages. It is a steep continuous set of stairs. Our thighs and lungs are burning from the workout. It takes two hours to reach Monterosso. In the last half hour downhill we run into a solid line of hikers just starting the trail south. The crowd takes some of the pleasure away. But we are rewarded with a beautiful view of this largest of the five villages. We re-hydrate with a small beer on the beach.

We can take the coastal train back but choose instead to try the commuter ferry. Fifteen minutes later we step off in Vernazza harbor to a horde of tourists. Arrggh! We find an open table at a harbor-side restaurant for a light lunch.

After spending an hour in town and getting gelato for energy, we set off on a second hike south to the third town, Corniglia. This trail was supposed to be easier, but it didn’t feel like it. Maybe because we are in the sun and it is sweaty hot. Plus we didn’t bring enough water. Miraculously at the halfway point we find an oasis that has beer. As a bonus our table has a wonderful view of Corniglia perched atop a promontory.

The last half of the hike is downhill in the shade so it is a pleasure. In Corniglia, I search the backstreets for a view toward the fourth city of Manarola. Corniglia is high atop the cliff so it is not connected to the ferry system. The train station is only a few blocks farther south so we choose to walk to it. What we didn’t realize is that the train is at sea level. The path down has 33 brick switchbacks with 382 steps!

Back in Vernazza, I am in dire need of rest and a shower. But before I can, I have to hike up the cliff north of town so I can get the iconic photo of Vernazza. The light this morning was in the wrong direction. The work of a photographer is never done!

For dinner one of my sisters managed to get a reservation at a cool restaurant perched atop part of the defensive works of Vernazza. All five towns have these watch towers because Muslim Barbary pirates terrorized coastal residents taking them into slavery never to return. We are serenaded with a beautiful sunset from our table. The meal was delicious topped off with an awesome dessert of ice cream with caramelized strawberries.