September 8, 2019

September 8, 2019

Leaving the Costa del Sol, we drove inland past more olive groves to the city of Granada. Granada was the last holdout of the Moors. As the Reconquista moved south, the Muslim elites retreated and picked this city for their last stand. It is probably the most Muslim of Spanish cities.

After checking into our hotel room, we took a taxi to the Old Town. We started by visiting some relics of that Medieval Muslim world. First up was Corral del Carbon, a Caravanserai or an inn used by traders who visited the city to sell luxuries brought in from North African trade routes. Next door is Alcaiceria, a reconstructed souk or market where these goods were sold to the general public. Today souvenirs are hawked to tourists. Nearby is an old Madrassa or Muslim school that has been turned into an office building. We peeked in at the richly decorated courtyard.

The Reconquista gained momentum when Ferdinand married Isabella uniting two of the largest kingdoms in Spain. This “Catholic Monarchy” had the power to finally push out the Moors and create the modern country of Spain. The final ‘reconquest” of Granada was so symbolic they built a large Cathedral and planned their burial here. Humorously the facade of the Cathedral has the shape of an Arch of Triumph. Our view of the interior was limited because of Sunday Mass.

We went around the corner to visit the adjoining Royal Chapel that contains the crypt of the Catholic Monarchy. The audio tour of this richly decorated chapel was outstanding. Sadly no photographs were allowed in this sacred space of the Spanish. An adjoining room had some great artifacts that were the personal possessions of Isabella, including her silver crown.

In a nearby Plaza we saw a large statue with Christopher Columbus explaining his ambitious plans to Isabella. With the Reonquista complete in 1492, Isabella funded his voyage of discovery. The resulting riches turned this new kingdom on the European “frontier” into the richest and most powerful on the continent.

A few blocks west we managed to find the 11th century El Banuelo Moorish baths. The main room with its octagonal skylights was in outstanding condition for its age. All we needed was some steaming water to imagine how the Moors might have spent time here. Contrary to the Roman Baths we have visited, the Moors did not soak but lounged around dousing themselves with water.

From the Old Town, we walked uphill through the narrow lanes of the Albayzin Moorish Quarter. Eventually we arrived at San Nicolas Church which has a terrace overlooking the city. This viewpoint provides the picture postcard scene of the Alhambra plateau. Interestingly like Gibraltar, there is a newly built mosque nextdoor. This one was also financed by Middle East Arabs. Hmmm, a new stealth Re-Re-Conquest might be occurring.

On our walk back to the hotel, Aimee and I stop for a beer and tapas. As we finish we hear thunder so we taxi back to the hotel just in time to beat the rain.

After resting a couple hours, we drove up the plateau that holds the Alhambra. We had dinner next door, while it rained continuously. Oh no, our weather luck may have finally ran out. After dinner we walked up the ramp to the Alhambra complex to begin our guided evening tour. As the Reconquista sped up, the Muslim Moors felt nervous and concentrated their power here and built a fort atop this hill. Made of pinkish stone, they named it “The Red One”, or in Arabic “Al Hambra”. At the peak 3000 people lived inside the fortification.

At the summit we passed through a double set of walls, and were delighted to see the rain stop. The open area in front of the castle is where the common people lived. The Sultan considered the stone fort uncomfortable so he built his family a lush palace next door.

After Ferdinand and Isabella took Granada, they left the palace intact but started building another. This unfinished Christian palace looks like a Roman arena inside a rectangular Renaissance building.

We then toured the Sultan’s Palace. When the Christian Monarchs saw the beauty of the Residence, they left it virtually intact. Because of this, it is now a World Heritage Site to be enjoyed by all. After seeing so many sites during the day, with the onslaught of tourists, it is a pleasure to walk through this palace in the evening on a private tour. It is almost like we own the place. All we need is some lounge pillows and servants, and we could be Sultans. We walked through most of the rooms but without furnishings it is hard to imagine the purpose of some rooms. Most are decorated with intricate geometric designs interlaced with Arabic script proclaiming the power of Allah.

For me the most magnificent spaces are the courtyards with their running water and fountains. For desert people, bubbling water is the stuff of Paradise or the Garden of Eden. By the time we left the sun had set and the moon was lighting the reflecting ponds.

From the Alhambra, we taxied back to our hotel arriving after 10 PM. It has been a long day of outstanding power touring.