August 16, 2022

August 16, 2022

After a leisurely morning, we left Kanab, UT retracing our route back to Page, AZ. From there we zigzagged east deep into Navajo land. The landscape is full of sandstone cliffs and small canyons. After several hours we reach Monument Valley Tribal Park on the Arizona-Utah border. We had trouble finding any availability in the two hotels near the park. Aimee and I were making plans to sleep in a tent when I accidentally noticed the campground had a cabin available.

The cabin hasn’t been cleaned yet so we head over to the lodge that has a museum about this Goulding property. A hundred years ago Harry Goulding opened a trading post here to service the needs of the local Navajo. During the Depression, he went to Hollywood to sell the locale for Western movies. His photos convinced director John Ford to film Stagecoach here in 1939 and the rest is history. Monument Valley is now the iconic western film backdrop. The museum is inside the Goulding home. For some reason he willed the property to Knox College in Galesburg, IL who to this day has a scholarship for Navajo students.

We return to the campground to find the cabin still isn't available. I tell Aimee this is par for the course for the Indians. We change clothes in the car and head to the campground office to meet the late-afternoon tour we booked. On an early RV trip, we just visited the Monument Valley entrance. We always intended to return with a jeep to explore its backcountry. That never happened. At the lodge, another dozen tourists, all from Europe, board our open tour truck. Apparently, Americans are all traveling in Europe.

The truck takes us deep into Monument Valley along a very rough and dusty road. We stop at several viewpoints, the most famous known as John Ford Point. But the crush of tourists makes taking photos difficult. I have to say neither Aimee nor I are particularly impressed with the scenery. These Navajo Sandstone cliff walls can be seen everywhere on the Colorado Plateau without having to share it with hundreds of your closest friends. Its appeal at least to me is its relationship to the Western movie industry.

One of the benefits of the tour is that it goes deeper into Monument Valley than public vehicles are allowed. We stop at several spots where arches and windows have developed in the sandstone cliff. At one stop three Navajo guides entertain us with some traditional drum and flute music. This was actually a highlight of the trip. Being the only Americans, Aimee and I developed a good rapport with our excellent Navajo guide. We also stop to see a Hogan house and a tiny Sweat Lodge.

Our last stop was at a viewpoint of the iconic ‘Mittens’ of Monument Valley. The sun is starting to set and they are beginning to glow. A nice end to an enjoyable tour.

Back at the campground, we are finally able to get our cabin key. We have a wine and picnic dinner on our deck with very pleasant weather. Our cabin is a little rustic but has everything we need. It reminds us very much of our RV. While not luxurious, it is the best tent we have ever slept in.