December 15, 2009

December 15, 2009

From Eureka Springs, AR we drove an hour up and down narrow mountain roads to Branson, MO. Along the way we passed dozens of Tyson chicken plants. On a tree outside one set of coops we spotted two bald eagles. Looking around we saw another dozen dotting the trees in the distance. It is very unusual to see eagles away from water and in such large numbers. Apparently we aren’t the only ones who like chickens.

In Branson, we planned to spend the night and see a couple shows. We were disappointed to find that most performers have already closed down for the winter. So we punted and drove the rest of the way to my parent’s home in Godfrey, IL. Instead of country music we listened to non-stop Christmas carols on the drive.

December 14, 2009

December 14, 2009

From west of Oklahoma City we rose early and headed east before sunup. The weather is supposed to turn cold so we need to cover some distance today. Our first stop is just across the Arkansas border at Fort Smith National Historic Site. Surprisingly most of the history associated with this site is with Oklahoma or what used to be Indian Territory. Very early in our nation’s history, it was planned that Indians east of the Mississippi were to be relocated to Oklahoma. When the first Cherokees arrived, hostilities broke out with the Osage who thought it was their land. Fort Smith was established in 1817 to bring peace. Later when the military duties transferred west, the fort was occupied by a Federal court responsible for the Indian Territory. “Hanging Judge” Parker presided over the US Marshals sent to Oklahoma to retrieve violent criminals. This story was the basis for Clint Eastwood’s “Hang ‘em High” and John Wayne’s “True Grit”.

The fort is also a stop on the Trail of Tears National Historic Trail. This trail follows the Cherokee’s forced removal from Georgia to Oklahoma. What makes their story unique is that the Cherokees had become “civilized” by learning to read and write and adopting farming lifestyles. Nevertheless Georgia didn’t want an independent nation within their state borders. I guess I can't blame them. In our travels, Aimee and I also wonder why in this modern era we still have "reservations".

Finished at Fort Smith we drove a few blocks to Miss Laura’s, the only bordello that is now a national historic landmark. We were given a tour of this restored business by a sweet old lady who never blushed once during the explanations.


From Fort Smith we drove north through the scenic Ozark Mountains to Pea Ridge National Military Park. Pea Ridge was the largest and most important battle west of the Mississippi. A Union victory here made sure that the border slave state of Missouri stayed in the Union. Surprisingly, many of Oklahoma’s Indians fought with the South…to their detriment. After the war, they were considered defeated combatants and had part of their new homelands taken away. After watching the park’s film we took a drive around the battlefield. Our stops were pretty quick because of the cold front blowing in.

From Pea Ridge we drove along a very windy mountain road to spend the night in Eureka Springs. This cutesy tourist town is decorated with thousands of lights for the holidays. Unfortunately for Aimee all the shops are closed by the time we arrive.

December 13, 2009

December 13, 2009

From Amarillo, TX we drove an hour north to Alibates Flint Quarries National Monument. The tour of this site is open only by reservation. Luckily I checked the website a few days ago. On the positive side we got our own private tour by a very entertaining ranger. After watching the film, we make the short hike to the ridge top location of the quarries. Alibates is famous for flint used to make arrow and spear points. This beautiful stone was traded throughout the region for maybe 10,000 years. The Indians that lived here quarried the stone and knapped it into flat “blanks”. The ultimate “buyer” was responsible for final shaping. The whole area is littered with flint tailings from this ancient Indian “manufacturing” plant. Surprisingly Aimee and I both found the place to be very interesting. I don’t know if it was because of the fascinating story or the enthusiasm of the ranger.

The quarries also overlook the Lake Meredith National Recreation Area. This man-made lake was a spot that we have jet-skied several times in the distant past. No longer. The reservoir is 92% empty, having been almost drained from drought and water overuse.

From Alibates we head cross-country into Oklahoma to Washita Battlefield National Historic Site. In the fall we visited Colorado’s Sand Creek Massacre site, which touched off the Southern Plains Indian War. Washita brought it to an end. The US cavalry spent two summers unsuccessfully chasing the elusive Indians. Finally in 1868, they began a winter campaign to catch them when most vulnerable. George Armstrong Custer located an encampment along the Washita River. He made a surprise dawn attack killing most of the braves. Believing in total war he burned everything and slaughtered all 875 of their horses. The rest of the tribes soon agreed to move to a reservation in the Indian Territory (Oklahoma).


After learning about the battle in the Visitor Center we take a walk around the battle site. It is mostly uninteresting except for the fact the weather was unseasonably warm and summer-like, making for an enjoyable walk. We spend the night outside Oklahoma City.

December 12, 2009

December 12, 2009

From Socorro, NM we made our way northeast to Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument. Before Columbus discovered America, New Mexico was a hotbed of Indians that lived in condominium-like structures called “pueblos”. These Salinas communities made their living harvesting salt from local dry lakes and trading it for food and other necessities. The largest, Gran Quivara, is one of the few places that these pueblos exist in such good condition. In looking at the ruins I am surprised how small the rooms are, barely big enough for one person to sleep in. I guess they were very private people.


In the 1600’s the Spanish built missions next to each pueblo to try and convert the Indians. It was marginally successful. Eventually the Puebloans, starving from having to spend their time building churches and feeding the Spanish staged a mass rebellion in 1680.

We spend most of the day traveling to each of the three scattered mission sites plus the Visitor Center. Midafternoon we leave the area and make the long drive to Amarillo. There we meet up with Aimee’s sister and her family. To their dismay we brought out the travel photos.

December 11, 2009

December 11, 2009

It is time for our annual pilgrimage back to the land of cold and ice. So we loaded up the car, got our coats out of storage and headed east hours before sunup. As soon as we crossed into New Mexico we left the highway and took a scenic byway north. Our route passes first thru the mining town of Silver City and then heads uphill for almost two hours into a pine forest full of snow. Fortunately it is the kind of snow I like. It is sunny, not too cold, and the snow is only on the side of the road. Aimee thinks we are crazy for taking this route in the winter. Despite it being off-season and way off the beaten track we find we are far from being the only nuts when we arrive at Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument.


Gila Cliff is another of the many ancient Indian cliff dwellings in the Southwest. It is not large but it is very nice and set in a scenic canyon. Plus the tour takes us inside the dwelling. After our quick two-hour visit we are back on the road. Getting to and from the monument is a big part of the experience. The park sits at the end of a very long and very winding mountain road. Fortunately we are not in a hurry and the pine forest/canyon scenery we pass through is some of the best that New Mexico has to offer.

After driving almost the whole day we finally stop for the night south of Albuquerque in Socorro, NM. Aimee is already missing the warm weather of Tucson.