Sunday, February 15, 2015

February 7, 2015

February 7, 2015

We were in bed early last night resting our tired legs.  So it is no surprise we are up before dawn.  We stepped out of our room to watch the Sunrise over the Grand Canyon.  We never tire of the view but the frigid morning weather at 7000-foot elevation is colder than we are used to. 

Before leaving the park we stop at Mather Overlook for a few photos.  I am surprised to see so many tourists out this early.

We drive south back towards Tucson.  Forty miles north of Phoenix we take the exit for Agua Fria National Monument.  The desolate area looks unappealing.  We drive the mile dirt road to the trailhead parking and are amused to find dozens of cars.  A Phoenix-area hiking club made the Monument their destination today.

We make the easy 1-mile hike following the tiniest stream bed to the Agua Fria River, nestled in a small rock-lined canyon.  It is always a treat to discover water in the desert.  At the stream junction we also see two rocks filled with Indian petroglyphs.

Even with another stop at Ikea in Phoenix we arrive home in Tucson before dinner.

Saturday, February 14, 2015

February 6, 2015

February 6, 2015

Since it gets very cold overnight in the desert, we take our time getting going this morning.  After eating the 7am late breakfast, we are on the trail out of the Grand Canyon before 8am.  We ascend via the longer Bright Angel trail.  The two trails couldn’t be more different.  South Kaibab follows a spine into the canyon with expansive views and constant sunshine.  Bright Angel, instead, follows a fault line crack.  We are in the shade almost the entire 6.5-hour trek.  The first half is pretty easy; the second half is a steep killer.  Despite being out of shape we aren’t seriously huffing or puffing.  When we get to the top and remove our boots, we both can feel our burning calves. No hiking for us for awhile.

To celebrate we have a big dinner at the Arizona Room and toast our successful mini-vacation.

Friday, February 13, 2015

February 5, 2015

February 5, 2015

Since we made the long trek to Northern Arizona, Aimee decides we should take advantage and do our favorite hike for the third time.  I am not so convinced.  The Grand Canyon is very cold during the winter.  We encountered snow both times we visited in May!  After looking at the unseasonably warm weather forecast, I agree.

It is two hours from Page to the South Rim.  By the time we buy crampons (in case we run into ice in sheltered spots), get dressed and shuttled to the trailhead, it is noon.  The hike down South Kaibab is delightful.  The weather is great and we never tire of seeing the different Grand Canyon view around every corner.  As we descend we are also going back in time.  Every rock layer and every stride is like a step 100,000 years into the past.  It took us almost five hours to make the 7.5 mile journey. Since it is February, we had the whole canyon to ourselves after the first hour. 

At Phantom Ranch, we check into our dormitory accommodations and eat the best beef stew in the country.

Thursday, February 12, 2015

February 4, 2015

February 4, 2015

We won the lottery!  Actually we won it several months ago.  Today we cash in our prize.  It is not a million dollars but something worth just as much to me.  After more than a dozen attempts, we finally won our chance to visit an unusual rock formation called “the Wave” deep within Vermillion Cliffs National Monument.  A few days ago on a lark we called to rent a jeep.  Partly because we are thinking of buying one to better explore the backcountry, and partly to protect our car from the eight-mile dirt access road.  Instead of a new jeep, we got a very old SUV, with 170,000 miles on the odometer, and in need of a lot of maintenance.  Not necessarily the vehicle I want to take into some of the last frontier in our country.

We crossed the Colorado River and drove into Utah.  Thirty miles west we take a dirt road south for eight miles.  I am so glad we are in a rental.  The road is very poor and crosses a still muddy deep creek crossing.  I would have turned around if we were in our sedan.

When we get to the trailhead we find a dozen vehicles already there.  We must be late.  The trail to the Wave is short (2.5 miles) but over rugged terrain.  It is purposefully left unmarked to discourage casual visitors.  The BLM provides lottery winners with a map containing photos, pointing out landmarks to follow.  The trail follows a dry wash and then traverses the slickrock edge of Coyote Butte past stunning scenery.  In less than ninety minutes we enter the Wave sitting atop the butte.

The Wave is very special.  The smooth, banded sandstone here has been eroded into sinuous shapes that resemble water waves frozen in time.  Mother Nature is truly an exquisite artist.  There are only a handful of people here and we take turns snapping photos.

Satisfied we scouted the surrounding area to see other formations.  Coyote Butte is full of beautiful and strange shapes.  On our return hike I was disappointed to see no ranger.  Even though the BLM limits the permits, apparently they don’t enforce it.  We ran into several international visitors coming out undeterred.  As with most government regulations these days, they only hurt the honest citizens.

Back at our hotel room, our legs are tired. We must be out of shape. For dinner we had Texas BBQ at a newly re-opened restaurant down the street.

Tuesday, February 10, 2015

February 3, 2015


February 3, 2015

We left before dawn this morning heading north.  A rare winter vacation.  It is a long six-hour drive to the town of Page on the opposite end of Arizona.  Page sits on the Colorado River in between the Grand Canyon and Lake Powell.  Outside Page, we stopped at Antelope Canyon Tribal Park on the Navajo reservation and signed up for a tour of the Lower section known as “the Corkscrew”.  Since it is winter, visitation is slow and we get a private tour led by a retired Navajo Indian.  We hiked a few hundred yards down a dry wash and then descended a metal ladder into a crack in the ground.  Antelope is a narrow slot canyon cut into the sandstone by the occasional summer monsoon deluge.  Slot canyons can be deadly at that time.  Today it is dry.  The allure of Antelope is that the sandstone walls have been cut smoothly in sweeping shapes that look like chocolate mousse.  In the summer when the sun is overhead, narrow shafts of light illuminate the canyon floor.  Our Navajo guide led us through the narrow recesses.  Around every corner he would point out a rock formation that resembled some creature or face.  Annoyingly he also kept grabbing my camera to take a photo of Aimee and me.  That is not why we are here.  We are enjoying the beauty and artistry of Mother Nature’s carving and hoping to get a shot worth displaying on our wall at home.

After the tour we drove southwest of town and hiked out to Horseshoe Bend where the Colorado River nearly makes a complete circle.  A million years of downward rock cutting has entrenched this ancient oxbow within a deep canyon.  We have been here before, but I am hoping the cloudy weather might display some better colors.  We are not disappointed.

We end the day in Page, where we get a room at a motel overlooking Lake Powell and Glen Canyon dam.
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