September 17, 2009

September 17, 2009

We went to a local church today to attend a town hall meeting with John McCain. Of course the main subject was health care. I was there more as a spectator to observe the controversy than for protest. Disappointingly the audience was pretty sedate.

Listening to the crowd and the media it is amazing how little people really know about this issue. There was more than one comment from the retiree crowd extolling how reasonably priced government provided Medicare is. They seem to think the token amount that is deducted from their Social Security is the cost of the insurance. I guess they don’t realize the vast majority of the burden is borne by payroll deductions on the working class.

Most of the talk was about insurance as if it was the source of the runaway medical costs. Insurance is mostly a zero sum game. It’s basically a cost sharing arrangement between all the clients. For one person to pay less, somebody else has to pay more. With new regulations, people with healthy lifestyles will surely support those who abuse their bodies. The young will subsidize us older folks. Medical insurance reform is long overdue. Coverage of preexisting conditions should be a requirement but only if you have had continuous insurance coverage. Otherwise we will all postpone buying a policy until we get sick. Mandatory insurance should be a requirement. Those who go without and then go to the Emergency room for care abuse the system. Too many opt to forego insurance in favor of soda pop, cell phones, Internet, video games, or cable TV driving up the cost for others.

As a country we need to address medical costs. There is a nationwide shortage of doctors. John McCain said we should attract more talent to the profession. That is not the answer; medical schools are not hurting for applicants. We need to expand the size of the schools and graduate more physicians (or encourage the immigration of foreign doctors). Tort Reform is also a requirement. Medicine is not an exact science and outrageous malpractice insurance is a national disgrace. The country would also be better off if most people had a high deductible policy that encouraged us to shop around for medical care.

What is the most alarming in this debate is how many people think putting government in charge of the largest segment of our economy will solve all the problems. What are they smoking?? Government is the antithesis of efficiency.

After listening to John McCain, it is clear he is not a flawless politician. But a big side benefit of moving to Arizona from Illinois is a huge upgrade in the quality of my senatorial representation.

September 14, 2009

September 14, 2009

The drive south from Showlow, AZ has to be one of the prettiest in the state. The route crosses the Apache Indian reservation gradually descending thru a pine forest. The road bottoms at the Salt River bridge crossing a mini grand canyon. No where else can you get this much scenic variety. Climbing back up to the mining town of Globe we find the road to Tucson closed for construction. The detour route adds almost an hour to our journey. Shortly after noon we arrive back in Tucson ending our fourth summer of adventure. Aimee is thrilled to be back in her nest and out of our "wheelestate".

Because of Alaska we did a lot of driving this summer, putting over 12000 miles on the RV in just over two months of travel. We averaged almost 12 miles per gallon, our best yet. With gas prices more reasonable this summer, our fuel bill was not terribly outrageous. Now we have some time to catch up on chores and plan for our next excursion.

September 13, 2009

September 13, 2009

From Grants, NM, we backtrack a little to drive down the east side of El Malpais National Monument. The name is Spanish for Badlands. This New Mexico version deserves the name more than the famous ones in the Dakotas. El Malpais is a huge gnarly lava field that fills the valley between sandstone cliffs. Driving south we stop at an overlook atop the cliff to look down at the lava expanse. We also hike to a natural arch formed in the cliff wall.


Returning back to the west side we stop to explore the lava field. When lava flows out of a volcano it often does so through lava tubes that lie just beneath the “solid” surface. Walking over the field we pass many locations where the ceiling collapsed exposing the empty tube below. In one case I leave Aimee behind and climb into one tube meeting her at the next exposed exit. The cave is surprisingly cool for just being ten feet below ground. We do the hike with a couple that look about our age. We discover that they quit their jobs in their 30’s and full time RV’ed for twelve years traveling the US, Mexico and Canada. They even wrote a book called “Take back your life”. No matter how adventurous we think we are, there is always somebody who tops us!


Just west of El Malpais is El Morro National Monument. Since this area was Spanish far longer than American I guess it is fitting the landmark names are all Spanish. El Morro is a huge sandstone promontory that was a landmark and critical oasis for travelers.


It could be called Inscription Rock because many of these Spaniards left their signature behind. “Paso por aqui” (passed by here) with a date and name is written everywhere. Incredibly the earliest is 1605 and is still very readable (with the help of charcoal). After looking at the historic graffiti we hike atop the mesa, see an Anasazi ruin, take in the view and then return to the Visitor Center.

From El Morro we continue west along the Coronado trail into Arizona. The trail turns due south following Rt. 191. We drove that way two years ago and although very scenic, it is probably the slowest and windiest paved road in America. We opt for the quicker route southwest where we descend into a Martian-like red desert landscape and spend the night in Showlow, AZ.

September 12, 2009

September 12, 2009

Our next stop on the Santa Fe Trail is Pecos National Historic Park. Pecos is the location of Glorieta Pass that would become important during the Civil War. Hundred of years before it was critical for the Pueblo Indians that lived here. Glorieta Pass is the connection between the Rio Grande Valley and the Pecos River valley of the Great Plains. The Indians living here became wealthy controlling trade between the nomadic tribes of the plains and Indians of the Southwest. The Indians of the Southwest relied on agriculture and built permanent settlements in the form of adobe condominiums called pueblos. The park museum has a good but concise history of the area from Coronado’s exploration thru Spanish colonization and religious conversion.

From the Visitor Center we walk the loop around the ruins. There is little left of the large Pueblo except a squarish circle of dirt around a central coutryard. More complete is the mission church the Spanish priests built next door. The pueblo was eventually abandoned after Comanche raiders from Texas devastated the trading business. By the time Santa Fe travelers passed by, the pueblo was already in ruins.

From Pecos we drive west completing our trail adventure at Santa Fe. Needing another guidepost, we decide to follow the Coronado trail. Coronado was the first European to explore the Southwest. He unsuccessfully searched for the fabled seven cities of gold. The Pecos Puebloans had sent him towards Kansas hoping he would not survive.


The Coronado trail heads west from Albuquerque. Less than an hour later we reach the exit for Acoma Pueblo. Having learned about pueblos this morning, we decide we want to see a complete one. We picked a good one to visit. Acoma is nicknamed “Sky City” and claims to be the oldest continuously occupied city in the US. For protection from hostile tribes, the pueblo was built atop a lone mesa. The only access was to climb the cliff walls.
After paying a stiff fee, we hop aboard a small bus for a tour. Acoma is a perfect example of anachronism. On one side the tribe wants to retain its old way of life with no running water, no electricity , no sewer, and adobe building materials. On the other hand, they want the modern lifestyle with a new paved road, cars, modern doors and windows, and generators to watch TV. The wonderful view off the mesa rim is marred with a line of modern outhouses. Acoma is a tacky slum in a gorgeous setting. After the interesting walking tour, we opt to hike back down to the entrance station and spend the night in Grants, NM.

September 11, 2009

September 11, 2009

From the Santa Fe Trail we make a detour east to see Capulin Volcano National Monument. Capulin was set aside because it is an almost perfect cone shaped volcano. It is probably the world’s only drive-up volcano. The scary park road circles up the outside and ends on the low side of the crater rim. The crater is much smaller than I expected. It takes us well less than an hour to hike completely around the rim and then down to the vent plug. The Capulin cinder cone was formed some 60,000 years ago when the volcano erupted like a Roman candle sending a fountain of lava bombs into the air.


From Capulin we return to the Santa Fe Trail stopping at Fort Union National Monument. The first Fort Union was built right after the Mexican war to secure New Mexico for the US. Later at the beginning of the Civil War a new star shaped earthen fortification was built to counter the expected attack from southern rebels. Johnny Rebs out of Texas did march up the Rio Grande taking Las Cruces and Santa Fe. Before they could take Fort Union, northern troops repulsed them just west of here at Glorieta Pass. Interestingly the same Colorado Volunteers involved in this battle later became infamous at the Sand Creek Massacre.

The third and largest Fort Union was built at the end of the Civil War and served mainly as a supply depot for New Mexico’s other garrisons. Mostly what is left of this sprawling adobe military complex is the brick chimneys, a few melting adobe walls and the stone prison cells. Through the center of the complex are ruts from the Santa Fe Trail.

We spend the night in Las Vegas. That’s New Mexico not Nevada. No slots to be found here.

September 10, 2009

September 10, 2009

Aimee didn’t sleep well last night. All she could think about was the 1959 “Crime of the Century” we read about in the book, “In Cold Blood”. This true story of a family massacre took place on a farm just west of here.

From Garden City, KS we continue our Santa Fe Trail adventure following the Arkansas River west. After crossing the border into Colorado we make a short detour north to Sand Creek Massacre National Historic Site. (Apparently this is gruesome murder day.) The last eight miles down a dirt road are a little hairy. If I drive slowly, the washboard surface shakes the RV violently; so I drive fast hoping I don’t slide off into the deep sand lining the road. Once at the site, we spit the dust out of our mouths and we are immediately greeted by a ranger. He gives us a mini talk on the history of the massacre. Discovery of gold in Colorado caused an influx of whites and increased friction with the Indians. After the murder of a Denver family, a volunteer regiment from Colorado was sent by the governor to exterminate all hostile Indians. Whether looking for glory or revenge this troop attacked a “peaceful” Indian group here in the middle of the prairie. Initially hailed as heroes they were later vilified when it was learned they also killed and scalped women and children. This massacre ignited the southern Plains Indian Wars. In listening to the story, I see parallels with the soldiers in Vietnam and Iraq who struggled with the difficulty identifying “terrorists” hiding among civilians.


From Sand Creek, we make our way back to the Santa Fe Trail arriving at Bent’s Old Fort National Historic Site. This adobe fort was built in 1833 when the Arkansas River formed the international border with Mexico. The Bent brothers setup this trading post to barter for valuable buffalo skins from the local Indians. The business flourished until almost 1850. It faltered with the drastic decline in the buffalo population and the rise of Indian hostilities. We tour the recreated fort. It is very impressive. The Park Service did an awesome job rebuilding and restocking the fort. It is a real treat to explore every room. Visitors are greeted by a leather clad descendent of Kit Carson. There are horses and oxen stabled in the rear. Even the picnic area near the park entrance is made to look like a rest area on the Santa Fe Trail.

From Bents Fort the Santa Fe Trail goes thru a very desolate stretch of scrubland before it hits Trinidad, CO. There the trail enters a beautiful stretch of pine forested foothills where it climbs up steep Raton pass. What a change from the flat as far as you can see prairie of this morning. As the RV struggles upward I envision the struggle the wagon trains of old would have endured. On the south side of the pass we retire for the evening in Raton, NM.

September 9, 2009

September 9, 2009

I guess the economy is taking its toll on the local residents. We had a group of freeloaders visit our campsite last night looking for a handout. They honked at me about the ills of capitalism. Taking pity on the hungry, I gave them some food and sent them on their way.

When we left Independence, MO, I didn’t realize that we were following the Santa Fe Trail. I learned that fact when we pulled into Fort Larned National Historic Site. The trail was primarily a commercial route. It served as the primary supply chain for the Southwest. When the south plains Indians (Kiowa, Cheyenne, and Commanches) started attacking wagon trains, the US Army responded by building a line of forts and escorting the caravans along the most dangerous sections. Fort Larned, built in 1860, was one of the trail guardians and a center for the Indian Wars. Its mission lasted until rail lines replaced the trail in the 1870’s.


Despite spending most of its life as a private ranch, the fort has been restored to its original appearance. The fort looks nothing like what Hollywood depicts; western forts were not wooden but stone. What wood was used in the structures had to be barged in from Michigan. We spend an hour looking at the exhibits and walking around the fort buildings.


From Fort Larned we drive to Dodge City to learn about the next phase of western history, the cowboy and the lawman. After the Civil War, Texas cowboys would drive huge cattle herds up the Cimarron Trail to railheads in Kansas. Initially to Abilene and later to Dodge City as the rail line crept westward. When the cowboys reached Dodge City and got paid they were ready to relax and spend money. Dodge City sprung up overnight to accommodate them. For its initial half dozen years Dodge City deserved its wild lawless reputation. Eventually lawmen like Wyatt Earp and Bat Masterson helped tame the town.

Most of this history can be learned in Dodge City’s Boothill Museum and Front Street. Despite looking a little hokey it is quite good and is what Tombstone in Arizona ought to emulate. Aimee however is getting tired of these museums and looks at me and says, “Lets get out of Dodge!” I heed the call and we drive west to Garden City, KS.

September 8, 2009

September 8, 2009

An hour drive west, we roll into Topeka, the capital of Kansas. There we visit an old grade school that holds Brown v Board of Education National Historic Site. The name is derived from a Supreme Court case in 1954 that kick started the civil rights effort. Until then the South had ”Jim Crow” laws that mandated segregation of the races. An 1896 Supreme Court ruling had upheld this “separate but equal”. In practice southern black schools were often inferior. Beginning in the mid 1930’s the NAACP recruited legal scholars to slowly chip away at the laws. They began with lawsuits against professional and graduate schools where duplicate equal facilities would be cost prohibitive. Eventually they filed five test cases that made their way to our highest court. This time the Supreme Court reversed its stand and ruled that separate is inherently unequal. Despite the ruling, it took many years and US troops to enforce the ruling in the South. We learned about that legacy when we visited Central High Historic Site in Little Rock last Christmas.


From Topeka we drive another hour west to Abilene, KS, boyhood home of Dwight Eisenhower. We spend a couple hours going thru his presidential museum. It is outstanding. Compared to Truman and probably most presidents, Eisenhower was well prepared for his term in office. He had years of practice leading men, running large bureaucracies and planning complicated missions. Few men understood the implications of the Cold War as he did. Surprisingly historians initially ranked him as a mediocre president but now rank him among the top ten. Besides covering his life, the museum has extensive exhibits on WWII. What I found most interesting about the three sites we saw today and yesterday was for me the “missing” history, the events of the mid 40’s thru mid 60’s. It is too old for me to remember but too recent to have been included in my high school history book.

September 7, 2009

September 7, 2009

From Columbia, MO we drive for a couple hours to Independence, MO. This is our second time thru town. The first time we neglected to stop at Harry Truman’s home. We correct that this morning but we are disappointed. First we have to walk a mile roundtrip to the visitor center to purchase a tour ticket for the house. The tour is very short (some ten minutes) and only covers the first floor of his old Victorian home in downtown Independence. The tour guide while not bad seems more concerned with making sure we touch absolutely nothing in the house or step anywhere outside the carpet runner than imparting some history. The tour is not worth the money or the time.


The downtown area is hosting a large craft fair. We like attending these events so we plan on spending the rest of the afternoon browsing. Very little catches our interest in the fair so after an hour we return to our original plans and head over to Truman’s presidential library. It is pretty good. Harry was pretty much a hard working failure who got lucky only twice. His timing though was right on. His first success was getting hooked up with the local political machine boss who sponsored his election run for judge and later senator. During his second term as senator, the national Democratic Party picked him to replace the current unpopular VP in FDR’s fourth term. Less than three months later Truman is president and he is in way over his head. He has no time to mature into the role as the problems come fast and furious. After seeing WWII to a close, the US economy is rocked with labor strikes, rampant inflation, food shortages and rising tensions with Russia. Harry is not very popular. Pulling out an election night upset in 1948, his second term is highlighted with an escalation of the Cold War and fighting in Korea. By the end of his second term Harry can’t wait to return to Independence and I can’t blame him.

Because of the craft fair the local RV park is full so we head west into Kansas and spend the night at a state park in Lawrence, KS. I can’t seem to get away from these “Big 12” campus towns.

September 6, 2009

September 6, 2009

After spending the last month with our parents we are ready to get home. So after lunch, we left today headed west. We drove for a couple hours and stopped for the night in the town of Columbia, MO. Considering yesterday’s Illini football fiasco, this seems the worst spot to stop. Maybe deep down it is my penance for the loss.

August 29, 2009

August 29, 2009

I have been told one of my nephews has the same mannerisms as I do. Aimee says, “poor kid”. His mother says it must be genetics. I think there is more to it. He seems to emulate everything I do. After he graduated with the same major as me I was flattered. But now he is getting carried away. He went and got married today, on my wedding anniversary! And wouldn’t you know it, he is going to Hawaii for his honeymoon, same as me! Yikes!