July 5, 2015

July 5, 2015

Our Colorado River trip is at an end but the excitement is not over.  We still have to exit the Canyon and return to civilization.  We got up early, had our last river breakfast, and repacked our gear into our own duffel bags.  The dry bags and sleep kits were returned.  We made our goodbyes to the crew.  They have a long day ahead.  After deflating the side tubes, they will do the last 90 miles to Lake Mead, where the rafts will be taken apart and trucked back to Marble Canyon.

After careful weighing of all the passengers and their bags, we boarded a helicopter in groups of five.  This very short trip took us to the canyon top and five miles north to a small ranch called Bar 10.  Aimee and I were in the second group.  Bar 10 Ranch sits inside the very remote Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument. 

At the ranch early, we had the opportunity to take a much-needed shower.  The dirt and sand ran off us for minutes.  Ninety minutes later we loaded onto a nine-passenger Cessna for the fifty-minute flight across the north rim to our starting point.  Both the pilot  and the co-pilot (Aimee) looked a little inexperienced but I was not concerned.  One of my fellow passengers is an F-16 fighter pilot.  We have backup.

In Marble Canyon, we stocked up on cold water and began the long drive back to Tucson.  Very long unfortunately.  Just south of Flagstaff we ran into stop and go traffic.  It is Sunday afternoon and apparently every Phoenician spent the holiday weekend up here in cooler climes.

July 4, 2015

July 4, 2015

This is our sixth and final day on the Colorado River.  Our only big stop is at the confluence with Havasu Creek.  It is just a narrow crack in the Cliffside.  We hiked a mile upstream to where it opens up into a little playful stream.  It has a hint of the teal blue color of the Little Colorado River.  I think the rains this week has muddied it up.  The creek is nice enough with a continuing series of minor waterfalls, but I would love to hike the four miles to Havasu Falls.  That gorgeous blue water 100 foot waterfall on the Havasupai Reservation, another Bucket List item, will have to wait.

The rest of the day is mostly quiet.  The Granite Gorge has disappeared.  (We must be coming down off the peak of the Colorado Plateau.)  The river is calmer and we spend most of the day motoring downstream. 

At lunch, one of the younger passengers is digging in the sand in search of Ant Lions.  Having never heard of them, I am amused to find an innocent looking weevil-like insect with that name.  It turns out they are ferocious.  All around I notice little sand pits.  I drop an ant into one and am shocked to see the Ant Lion clamp down on it.  The ant struggles but can’t escape the death trap.

Near the end of the day, the landscape suddenly changes.  Volcanoes have altered the landscape.  Basaltic lava rock coats the Cliffside.  We can see the characteristic hexagonal columns in the cliff walls.  Our guide describes how lava flows dammed up the Colorado River several times over the last million years.  Mother Nature and the river eventually destroyed each one but not without altering the course of the river. 

The last lava dam is not completely gone.  The resulting Lava Falls rapid is probably the biggest we ran.  It is a boiling cauldron of coffee-colored water.  We survived, but not without some major splashes in the face.  This rapid also marks the end of our trip.  We camp a few miles down at mile 187.5.

Since today is both the trip end and a Holiday, the raft crew restocked us with more beer and vodka.  We have no fireworks (The National Park forbids them), so we sing a couple patriotic songs.

July 3, 2015

July 3, 2015

Today is our fourth day on the Colorado River and our second big rapids day.  When we started this trip, we felt like we were on John Wesley Powell’s landmark trip through the Grand Canyon in 1869.  He certainly didn’t know what lay ahead of him exploring this last blank spot on the map, but he was used to a rougher life.  Aimee and I have been greatly softened by civilization.  Fortunately the rafts we ride have been designed for us tender foots.  They have big inflatable side tubes making them almost impervious to flipping.  Any trepidation we had about the rapids quickly evaporated by the tenth one.  Now it is just a question of how wet we are going to get.

Our first break to dry off is at Stone Creek.  We follow this side canyon up to a small waterfall.  After four nights of camping and no bathing, we relish this opportunity to stand under the flow hoping to wash away some of the accumulated sand and smells.

Just a few miles downstream we enter the Granite Narrows, the river’s tightest spot.  The river is surprisingly quiet and still.  We stop at a ledge to allow a few of the younger passengers to jump into the water.  Not me.  46 degrees is not my idea of fun.

Shortly afterwards we spot a big male Bighorn scaling the sheer granite cliff.  We have seen Bighorn everyday, but this is our first male.  Apparently they are not very family oriented.

Just before lunch we make another stop at Deer Creek.  This elevated stream plunges to river level in a beautiful 150 foot waterfall.  For exercise we hiked up to the slot canyon feeding it and carefully walked the ledges back to where the canyon opens up into a grotto called “the Patio”.  After a hot hike back to river level, it was refreshing standing next to the cool rush of air by the waterfall.  Ahhh, natural air conditioning!

After an afternoon of more big rapids, we stopped at Matkatamiba Canyon, a tiny crack of a canyon hidden at the entrance to a rapids.  Here a tiny stream of water flows inside a smooth narrow chasm.  Many of us shinnied our way up the tunnel.  Aimee took the easier route up and over the side wall along the crest.  It ended at another secluded grotto.

We camped around the corner at mile 149.

July 2, 2015

July 2, 2015

We awoke to a higher river level.  The dam must be generating more to meet electrical demand.  This should make for some wilder rides.  The river is also noticeably browner from rain on the plateau above.  No wonder the Spanish named it the Colorado (colored).  It is only because of the settling affect of the dam that the river oftentimes runs clear.

Soon after departing camp, we find the river has exposed a completely different strata.  No more sedimentary rocks; we are into the basement rocks of the continent.  We have entered the beautiful inner Granite Gorge.  It is a significantly harder rock layer, hence the river is narrower and much swifter.

We don our rain suits today because of the rapids.  It is to stay warmer.  Since the water comes off the bottom of Glen Canyon Dam, it is a bone chilling 46.  Mostly I have been riding with Aimee in the back of the boat, jokingly referred to as the “Tea Room” for its calmer ride.  Since I am feeling better, I take a couple turns sitting in the very front of the raft, an area known as the “Bath Tub”.  It takes a couple big rapids before I learn to hold my breath until the last splash.

Our first stop today was at the only piece of civilization along the entire journey, Phantom Ranch.  It is connected to the outside world by mule train.  We only stayed long enough to refill water jugs.

A second stop was at Shinumo Creek for a short hike to a little waterfall.  It was cute because we were able to climb around a rock and come out under the waterfall.  With an air temperature well over 100, the water felt great.

We also passed the site of several old Asbestos mines in the cliff wall where the sedimentary and granite layers meet.  The guide explained that this mineral forms where hot water encounters igneous rocks.

Our last stop was at Blacktail canyon.  The Grand Canyon is filled with narrow side canyons formed from rain on the plateau spilling down the canyon walls.  We camped across the river at mile marker 121.  We were again blasted by sand until rain came to our relief.  We took shelter under an overhang.  Within minutes, a small waterfall formed to our side.   Oooh, the beginnings of a new slot canyon!

July 1, 2015

July 1, 2015

Last night one of the other campers gave me Pepto-Bismol tablets they had in their first aid kit.  It was almost instant relief.  Thank god.  After 24 hours of misery, I was considering getting myself helicoptered out.  Instead I awoke refreshed and happy.

As we cruise down the river the canyon walls get taller and taller.  We can see the effect of the river cutting down into the Colorado plateau uplift in the rocks being exposed.  Every few miles a new rock layer is exposed.  The boat captain identifies each strata and its geologic source.  Most of the rock must be very hard and durable as the walls are surprisingly sheer and vertical.

Our major stop today is the confluence with the Little Colorado River.  The LCR comes from the south across Navajo land cutting its own major canyon.  Aimee and I are stunned.  The Colorado is fairly clear but greenish brown.  The LCR is a brilliant teal blue color.  It stands in marked contrast with the red canyon walls.

From the confluence we hiked up stream.  The guide shows us a spot we can slide down a chute in the river using our life vest as a diaper or butt protector.  Aimee loves it.  Besides being fun, the water is a pleasant 70+.  Aimee can’t stop herself from making run after run.  She and two other girls even form a train and pretend they are water ballerinas.  Our whole rafting trip would have been worth it just to see this amazing spot.  Unfortunately this little slice of paradise is under pressure.  Even though the Navajos consider this piece of land sacred, they want to cash in.  They are hoping to build a gondola that would shuttle 2 million people down to this site every year.  The uniqueness would be destroyed.

While Aimee played, I walked upstream to investigate more.  I have never seen a teal-colored river, only glacial lakes with their finely divided silt.  Travertine bowls are all over the river.  Apparently this river picks up a lot of lime underground and now it is degassing causing the precipitation of finely divided calcium carbonate.  Very cool and already the trip has exceeded our expectations.

Back in the raft we continued our journey downstream.  The LCR marks the historic beginning of the Grand Canyon.  From here the canyon walls rise even higher and set farther back.  How truly grand it is.

Just downstream, we pass aluminum glinting off the canyon wall.  This is the site of the 1956 crash of two passenger jets that killed all 128 aboard.  At the time it was not uncommon for passenger planes to make maneuvers to improve views of the Grand Canyon.  This first major crash prompted the establishment of the FAA.  Eerily one of the lost souls has my same last name, likely a long lost relative.

On the opposite bank, we pass an area where salt clings to the side of the canyon walls.  Some of the rock strata include sediments formed when the ocean covered this area.  That deposition must have trapped salt water that now leaches to the surface with groundwater seepage.  The Hopi Indians used to travel to this spot to collect salt for preservation of meat.

Tonight we camped near mile marker 75.  While setting up camp we were blasted with gusts of hot air and sand.  The sky was beautiful with storm clouds and lightning but not a drop of rain to dampen the sand.  It rains little in the desert.  We left the tent in the bag.  Like previous nights we slept on cots outside under the stars, or in this case clouds.

June 30, 2015

June 30, 2015

I must have eaten something I shouldn’t have on the drive up because just after going to bed my stomach started to ache and I eventually got sick.  Oh what a time for that to happen!  I was miserable the whole day with my stomach and body aching.  Add to that was the heat.  I couldn’t stay cool.  I sat in the boat and watched the beautiful scenery pass by as best I could.  After throwing up I would feel good for an hour and then the cycle repeated.

We stopped several times.  One was at Redwall Cavern.  It looks like a small cave in the towering red sandstone cliff until you walk into it and realize it is an enormous amphitheater capable of holding 50,000 people. 

Our second was at the proposed site of Marble Canyon dam.  In the 1950’s several more dams were proposed along the Colorado River above Hoover Dam.  Glen Canyon was completed in 1966 forming Lake Powell.  An outcry of “Save the Grand Canyon” scuttled the other dams and finished with President Johnson proclaiming this stretch of river as Marble Canyon National Monument.  In 1975 it was merged into Grand Canyon National Park.  Despite being a national treasure, the Grand Canyon had a rough time making it to true National Park status.  A test bore was drilled into the cliff wall as part of the dam prep work.  Flashlight in hand we explored the 50 foot long narrow cave.

Our third stop was Saddle Canyon for a hike in a hanging slot canyon to a small waterfall.  The first section required a hot climb up the cliff.  I am not up for it, so I let Aimee go without me.  She said it was hot but the waterfall was refreshing.

Tonight we camped at Nankoweap Canyon, mile 53.  This large river delta was farmed by Anasazi Indians 1000 years ago.  High above us on the cliff is a small granary used to protect the food they grew.  A steep trail leads up to it.  I am still not up to it.  Aimee makes the hike and reports back that the granary is unimpressive and small, but the view of the river is outstanding.

Despite not eating at all today, I am still not hungry.

June 29, 2015

June 29, 2015

We are in northern Arizona for a Bucket List item, an adventure raft trip down the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon.  In the hotel parking lot we meet up with our outfitter.  He gives each one of us two dry bags to store our gear; a small one for items we will need during the day and a larger one for everything else.  All the bags look alike so we write the bag numbers on our coffee cup.  We then hop a couple vans for the short ride down the road to the river access at Lee’s Ferry.  There we meet our guides and load all the gear onto two large rubber rafts.  Before long, we are headed downriver. 

Lee’s Ferry, located at the confluence with the Paria River, was historically the only point the Colorado River could be easily accessed from both sides for many hundreds of miles.  It was the most important crossing point until Navajo Bridge was built in 1929. 

Lee’s Ferry is also mile marker 0 of the Grand Canyon National Park.  The Colorado River is not a big river but it is swift.  It drops an average of 8 feet every mile, 25 times more than the Mississippi where I grew up.  That gradient means we have a wild ride ahead of us.  It is not long before we hit the first rapids.  It is a small one but gives a taste of what to expect.  Neither Aimee nor I are big whitewater rafting fans; we are on this trip to see more of our favorite national park, not to get knocked off into a swirling vortex.  I hope we didn’t bite off more than we can handle.

Fortunately the river alternates between calm stretches and rapids, giving us time to enjoy the scenery.  On three occasions we spot Bighorn Sheep.  All were groups of ewes with juveniles looking for a drink of water.

We stopped once for a lunch of deli meat sandwiches and another time to stretch our legs at a large sand cave carved out of the cliff.  Around 3pm we stopped for the day at a sand bar located near mile marker 30.  We formed a fire line to bring our night packs to shore along with all the kitchen gear.  While we each set up our own personal camp space, the crew of three prepared dinner.  They served us hors d'oeuvres followed by a steak and mashed potato dinner, and Aimee’s favorite, brownies.  I would call it Glamping (glamorous camping) except for the potty situation.  Number One is done in the river and Number Two is on portable outhouses (lovingly nicknamed the “Groover”) setup on either end of the camp.  Thirty-two people camping on a mostly barren sandbar doesn’t make for privacy.

June 28, 2015

June 28, 2015

It is summer again and Tucson is sizzling.  We are set to revisit one of our favorite National Parks, the Grand Canyon, in a new and exciting way.  So we packed our bags and drove north.  Fours hours later we pull into Flagstaff.  The 4000 feet increase in elevation provides a delightful and welcome drop of 20 degrees.

Looking for an excuse to stretch our legs in the cool weather, we stopped at Lowell Observatory situated on a small hill in the middle of town.  Built in 1894, it is one of the oldest in the US.  Locally it is famous for its discovery of the now demoted dwarf-planet Pluto.  The observatory was founded by the eccentric astronomer Percival Lowell, who believed he saw fanciful canals on Mars popularizing the belief that it must harbor intelligent life.  The historic main telescope is out for repair so we opt to delay the tour of the facility and museum until our next visit.

Unfortunately, we are not staying in Flagstaff.  We drive another two hours north to the Colorado River.  At the Navajo Bridge crossing, we stop and walk out onto the span and check out the river far below.  That is our destination tomorrow.  Ten miles west we check into Cliff Dwellers Lodge situated in the shadow of the Vermillion Cliffs.  We are back in the sweltering heat.